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Archive-name: ferret-faq/part1 Last-modified: 7 Feb 95 Version: 2.4 FERRET FAQ (part 1 of 5) -- ABOUT THE FERRET FAQ Compiled and edited by Pamela Greene <pgreene@optics.rochester.edu> Additions, corrections, and suggestions for this file are welcomed! This document is copyright 1994, 1995 by Pamela L. Greene. See section 0.5 (in Part I, About the Ferret FAQ) for authorship information and redistribution rights. In short, you can give it away, but you can't charge for it. The basic Ferret FAQ has five parts, all of which should be available wherever you obtained this one. Most people will want to look at parts 1 through 4, and perhaps skim part 5. A complete table of contents for all five files is given in Part I. Please at least read section 0 in Part I, About this FAQ. In addition, there are separate FAQ's for several common ferret diseases. Information about those is given in section [1.1]. Please note: I am not a ferret expert, and I did not write, nor did I independently verify, all the information in this file. I have done my best to include only accurate and useful information, but I cannot guarantee that what is contained in this file, whether written by me or by one of the contributors, is correct, or even that following the advice herein won't be harmful to you or your ferret in some way. For advice from an expert, you may wish to consult one of several books available, or, especially in the case of a suspected medical problem, a veterinarian who is familiar with the treatment of ferrets. ------------------------------ Subject: CONTENTS OF THESE FILES PART I: ABOUT THE FERRET FAQ 0. *** About this FAQ *** (0.1) Notes on formatting (0.2) Where to get this FAQ (0.3) Goal of this FAQ (0.4) Credits and editor's notes (0.5) Copyright and redistribution information 1. *** Where to get more information *** (1.1) What other Ferret FAQs are there? (1.2) How can I find a ferret breeder/shelter/vet/catalog? (1.3) How do I join the Ferret Mailing List? (1.4) Where can I find pictures of ferrets online? (1.5) Is there any other information available online? (1.6) What are some of the books available? 2. *** Revision history of these files *** (2.1) Revision history of these files Part II: FERRETS AS PETS 3. *** Introduction to ferrets *** (3.1) What are ferrets? Do they make good pets? (3.2) Are ferrets wild? Why are there ferret permits? (3.3) What's the average ferret lifespan? (3.4) What do you call a group of ferrets? (3.5) I'm allergic to cats. Will I be allergic to ferrets? (3.6) What's this I hear about ferrets attacking babies? 4. *** Getting a pet ferret *** (4.1) Which color is the best? Male or a female? What age? (4.2) How many should I get? All at once, or one at a time? (4.3) Are ferrets legal where I live? Do I need a license? (4.4) Where can I get a pet ferret? What should I look for? (4.5) What are these little blue dots on my ferret's ear? What's the deal with Marshall Farms? (4.6) How should I introduce a new ferret to my old one(s)? (4.7) Will my ferret get along with my other pets? 5. *** Things you'll need *** (5.1) What will I need to take care of my new ferret? (5.2) Do I need a cage? How should I set it up? (5.3) Pet stores use wood shavings as bedding. Should I? (5.4) What kind of litter should I use? (5.5) What kind of collar/bell/tag should I use? (5.6) Any suggestions on toys? Part III: CARE AND BEHAVIOR 6. *** Basic ferret care and training *** (6.1) How can I best ferretproof my home? (6.2) What should I feed my ferret? (6.3) Should I give my ferret any supplements? (6.4) What are good treats? (6.5) How do I train my pet not to nip? (6.6) I'm having problems litter-training. What do I do? (6.7) Any advice on baths, ears, and nail-clipping? (6.8) Can I teach my ferret tricks? How? (6.9) Do ferrets travel well? 7. *** Things ferrets say and do *** (7.1) How do I know if my ferret likes something? (7.2) My ferret trembles a lot. Is that normal? (7.3) Help! My ferret is going bald! (7.4) Is he really just asleep? (7.5) What does such-and-such a noise mean? (7.6) What games do ferrets like to play? (7.7) What else should I probably not worry about? Part IV: HEALTH CARE 8. *** Basic health care *** (8.1) Do I need to spay/neuter my pet? How about descenting? Declawing? (8.2) What vaccinations will my ferret need, and when? (8.3) Can I vaccinate my own ferrets? (8.4) What kind of checkups should my ferret be having? (8.5) Are ferrets really as prone to disease as it seems? (8.6) How do I contact Dr. Williams? I hear he'll look at ferret tissue for free, and help with diagnoses, too. 9. *** Problems to watch for and related information *** (9.1) What warning signs of disease should I watch for? (9.2) My ferret's had funny-looking stools for a few days. What's wrong? (9.3) What are these little orange-speckled crusty spots on my ferret's skin? (9.4) What's the best first aid for heat exposure? (9.5) How can I get rid of these fleas? (9.6) How do I tell if my ferret has ear mites? What do I do about them? (9.7) Do I need to worry about heartworms? Part V: MEDICAL OVERVIEW 10. *** Common health problems *** (10.1) Overview of common health problems (10.1.1) Noninfectious health problems (10.1.2) Parasites (10.1.3) Infectious diseases (10.1.4) Neoplasia (Cancer) (10.2) Other common problems and more information 11. *** Feeding a sick ferret *** (11.1) What's Ferret Soup? Does anyone have a recipe? (11.2) What's Duck Soup? Anyone have a recipe? 12. *** Medical reference material *** (12.1) What books can I get or recommend to my vet? (12.2) Are there any other useful references? - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 0. *** About this FAQ *** ------------------------------ Subject: (0.1) Notes on formatting The answers in this file are given in a "digest format" which should make it easier for you to scan through it for the information you want. Each question begins with a line of hyphens, followed by its number and the question itself, as given in the Table of Contents above. In many newsreaders, including rn, trn, and strn, you can jump from one question to the next by hitting CONTROL-G. You can also look for a particular answer by searching for its number or for words from the question. Cross-references to other questions are in square brackets; for example, [1.2] means that more information may be found in section 1.2. ------------------------------ Subject: (0.2) Where to get this FAQ This FAQ is posted around the 20th of each month to the rec.pets, rec.answers, and news.answers newsgroups. It is also available by anonymous FTP in the directory ftp://rtfm.mit.edu/pub/usenet/news.answers/ferret-faq/ (that is, ftp to rtfm.mit.edu and cd to the indicated directory). The files themselves are called part1 through part5. If you don't have access to FTP, or if the server is busy (as it often is), you can also request the files by mail. You can receive all five parts in separate email messages by sending a message to <listserv@cunyvm.cuny.edu> with the single line (in the body of the message) GET ANSWERS PACKAGE FERRET To receive only a single part, instead send a command like GET ANSWERS PART1 FERRET The Ferret FAQ is also available on the World Wide Web, as a fully- indexed, cross-linked set of documents for browsing with Mosaic, lynx, or a similar WWW client. Open the URL <URL:http://www.ceas.rochester.edu:8080/ee/users/rhode/index.html> If all else fails, send me <pgreene@optics.rochester.edu> email and I'll be glad to send you a copy. ------------------------------ Subject: (0.3) Goal of this FAQ A number of books exist which were written by experts and are intended to be comprehensive discussions of all sorts of ferret behavior and medical problems. This FAQ is not intended to replace any of those. However, there seemed to be a need for a document which covers many of the basic questions in a fairly light way. Originally, this was intended to be a FAQ in the purest sense of the term: a document to answer questions which keep coming up in the newsgroups and Ferret Mailing List. Over the months, however, the FAQ grew, and its purpose broadened. More general questions, and especially more medical information, were included. Although I can't claim that this is now a comprehensive guide to ferret ownership, it is a good source of information and collective opinion about a wide range of subjects. Whether you're new to ferrets or a long-time owner, chances are this FAQ will have something interesting for you. ------------------------------ Subject: (0.4) Credits and editor's notes Contributions of individual respondents are marked as such and indented. Other sections were either written by me (Pamela Greene, <<pgreene@optics.rochester.edu>>) or compiled from a number of contributions. Many thanks to the following people who contributed responses, comments, and corrections: Rob Alexander, Carla Almaraz, Sukie Crandall, Todd Cromwell, Ann Davis, Katie Fritz, Robert Galvin, James Garriss, Pam Grant, Nancy Hartman, Arlyn Kerr, Jim Lapeyre, Chris Lewis, Ed Lipinski, Linda Mooring, Rochelle Newman, Kate Pappas, John Rosloot, Marilee Warner, anyone else I may have missed, and special thanks to Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, Dr. Charles Weiss, DVM, and Dr. Susan Brown, DVM for all their efforts on behalf of the members of the Ferret Mailing List and all "ferret friends". ------------------------------ Subject: (0.5) Ferret FAQ copyright and redistribution information This compilation, which comprises five individual files as described in the Table of Contents above, is copyright 1994, 1995 by Pamela L. Greene. It may be freely distributed by electronic, paper, or other means, provided that it is distributed in its entirety (all 5 files), including this notice, and that no fee is charged apart from the actual costs of distribution. Permission is also granted for Parts I through IV, inclusive, to be distributed together but without Part V. (For-profit service providers such as Compuserve and America Online are granted permission to distribute the files provided that no additional fee beyond standard connection-time charges is levied.) Those portions of this file written by others remain the property of their respective authors. Anyone who wishes to is encouraged to include a World Wide Web hypertext link [0.2] to the main Index page of this document set at <URL:http://www.ceas.rochester.edu:8080/ee/users/rhode/index.html> wherever it might be appropriate. If you do make a link, please email me <<pgreene@optics.rochester.edu>> a note saying so! - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 1. *** Where to get more information *** ------------------------------ Subject: (1.1) What other Ferret FAQs are there? There are five parts to the main Ferret FAQ. The contents of those parts are listed at the top of this file. There are also FAQ's dedicated to several common diseases: Adrenal disease (adenoma, adenocarcinoma) Insulinomas (islet cell tumors) Lymphosarcoma (lymphoma) Skin tumors (skin and mast cell tumors) Cardiomyopathy (heart disease) Splenomegaly (enlarged spleen) Mystery green diarrhea virus These FAQs are not posted to any newsgroup, nor are they available by FTP, but you can receive them from a mailserver. To get a copy of all six files, each in a separate email message, send email to <listserv@cunyvm.cuny.edu> with the single line (in the body of the message): GET DISEASE PACKAGE FERRET To receive only a single part, instead send one of these commands: GET ADRENAL DISEASE FERRET GET INSULIN DISEASE FERRET GET LYMPH DISEASE FERRET GET SKIN TUMORS FERRET GET CARDIO DISEASE FERRET GET ENLARGED SPLEEN FERRET GET GREEN VIRUS FERRET You can also send me <<pgreene@optics.rochester.edu>> email and I'll be glad to send you whichever files you'd like. ------------------------------ Subject: (1.2) How can I find a ferret breeder/shelter/vet/catalog? An extensive list of ferret clubs, breeders, organizations, vets and catalogs is maintained by STAR*Ferrets and is available on the World Wide Web at <http://www.optics.rochester.edu:8080/users/pgreene/for-others/database.html>. It is also available from a list server. Send email to <listserv@cunyvm.cuny.edu> with the line SEND FERRET DATABASE in the body. Note that the file is rather long, around 44K, which may give some mailers problems. ------------------------------ Subject: (1.3) How do I join the Ferret Mailing List? The Ferret Mailing List (FML) is strongly recommended. To subscribe to the FML, send email to its moderator at <ferret-request@cunyvm.cuny.edu> and ask to be added. You'll get a note back detailing policies and such and explaining how to send letters to the list. ------------------------------ Subject: (1.4) Where can I find pictures of ferrets online? The Ferret Photo Gallery, on the World Wide Web, has a large collection of JPEGs and GIFs. It's located at <URL:http://www.optics.rochester.edu:8080/users/pgreene/faq/gallery.html>. Bob Nixon maintains an FTP site with many ferret pictures, too, at <URL:ftp://ftp.primenet.com/users/b/bigrex>. Most of the pictures at either site are also at the other. If you find any that aren't available from those sites, please let me <pgreene@optics.rochester.edu> know! ------------------------------ Subject: (1.5) Is there any other information available online? Discussions of ferrets sometimes come up in the Usenet newsgroup rec.pets. The FAQ "Fleas, Ticks and Your Pet" [9.5] is distributed there as well, and is also available by FTP as <URL:ftp://rtfm.mit.edu/pub/usenet/news.answers/pets/fleas-ticks>. Several bulletin board systems keep pet FAQs and discussions, as does the Compuserve Small Mammals forum (GO PETSTWO). An index of ferret information is available from Ferret Central, on the World Wide Web at <URL:http://www.ceas.rochester.edu:8080/ee/users/rhode/index.html>. Various ferret-related information is available from the file server at CUNY; send the command INDEX FERRET to <listserv@cunyvm.cuny.edu> for a complete list, with descriptions. ------------------------------ Subject: (1.6) What are some of the books available? Lots of books have been written about ferrets, ranging from brief treatments to extensive discussions of behavior and medical issues. Introductory books, all most owners will ever need, are usually available in pet stores. Two of the more popular are Ferrets: a Complete Owner's Manual, by Chuck and Fox Morton. Barron's Educational Series, Hauppauge, NY, 1985. ISBN 0-8120-2976-3 A relatively short, but well-written guide. Not as in-depth as some, but a very good, friendly introduction to ferrets as pets. Ferrets in Your Home, by Dr. Wendy Winsted. T.F.H. Publications, Inc., Neptune City, NJ, 1990. ISBN 0-86622-988-4 Longer and more in-depth, but still very readable. Includes, for instance, more information on reproduction and breeding, but also more expensive. Dr. Susan Brown, DVM, recommends the following book: A Practical Guide to Ferrets, by Deborah Jeans. Contact the author at Ferrets Inc., P. O. Box 450099, Miami, FL 33245-0099; fax 305-285-6963. "Excellent, easy to read, very thorough and up to date, and written with a lot of love and care." - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 2. *** Revision history of this file *** ------------------------------ Subject: (2.1) Revision history The most accurate description of the version of this FAQ is the date at the top. For really minor changes, I won't necessarily change the version number, but I'll always change the date. Version 2.4 - 7 Feb 95 Added sections 1.4 and 8.5; renumbered others as necessary Significant changes to sections 1.2, 1.5, 5.3, 6.2, 6.5, 7.7 Small changes to sections 0.4, 3.1, 4.3, 6.3, 7.3, 9.1 Insignificant formatting changes to 1.3, 1.6, 6.4, 7.5, 8.2, 8.4, 8.6, 9.5, 10.2 Version 2.3 - 26 Dec 94 Significant changes to sections 4.3, 8.2, 8.4 Small changes to sections 0.4, 0.5, 1.2, 3.2, 10.1.3 Insignificant formatting changes to 3.1, 4.4, 6.7, 9.3, header Version 2.2 - 1 Nov 94 Revised several sections Reformatted all files; first version released on World Wide Web Version 2.1 - 28 Sept 94 Version 2.0 - 2 June 94 Version 1.2 - 3 May 94 Version 1.1.1 - 15 Mar 94 Version 1.1 - 28 Jan 94 Version 1.0 - 15 Dec 93 Version 0.3 - 7 Dec 93 Version 0.2 - 29 Nov 93 Version 0.1 - 23 Nov 93 == End of Part I == -- - Pam Greene <pgreene@optics.rochester.edu> Ferret Central - <http://www.ceas.rochester.edu:8080/ee/users/rhode/index.html> Ferret FAQ - GET ANSWERS PACKAGE FERRET in mail to <listserv@cunyvm.cuny.edu> Archive-name: ferret-faq/part2 Last-modified: 7 Feb 95 Version: 2.4 FERRET FAQ (part 2 of 5) -- FERRETS AS PETS Compiled and edited by Pamela Greene <pgreene@optics.rochester.edu> Additions, corrections, and suggestions for this file are welcomed! This document is copyright 1994, 1995 by Pamela L. Greene. See section 0.5 (in Part I, About the Ferret FAQ) for authorship information and redistribution rights. In short, you can give it away, but you can't charge for it. The basic Ferret FAQ has five parts, all of which should be available wherever you obtained this one. Most people will want to look at parts 1 through 4, and perhaps skim part 5. A complete table of contents for all five files is given in Part I. Please at least read section 0 in Part I, About this FAQ. In addition, there are separate FAQ's for several common ferret diseases. Information about those is given in section [1.1]. Please note: I am not a ferret expert, and I did not write, nor did I independently verify, all the information in this file. I have done my best to include only accurate and useful information, but I cannot guarantee that what is contained in this file, whether written by me or by one of the contributors, is correct, or even that following the advice herein won't be harmful to you or your ferret in some way. For advice from an expert, you may wish to consult one of several books available, or, especially in the case of a suspected medical problem, a veterinarian who is familiar with the treatment of ferrets. ------------------------------ Subject: CONTENTS OF THIS FILE Part II: FERRETS AS PETS 3. *** Introduction to ferrets *** (3.1) What are ferrets? Do they make good pets? (3.2) Are ferrets wild? Why are there ferret permits? (3.3) What's the average ferret lifespan? (3.4) What do you call a group of ferrets? (3.5) I'm allergic to cats. Will I be allergic to ferrets? (3.6) What's this I hear about ferrets attacking babies? 4. *** Getting a pet ferret *** (4.1) Which color is the best? Male or a female? What age? (4.2) How many should I get? All at once, or one at a time? (4.3) Are ferrets legal where I live? Do I need a license? (4.4) Where can I get a pet ferret? What should I look for? (4.5) What are these little blue dots on my ferret's ear? What's the deal with Marshall Farms? (4.6) How should I introduce a new ferret to my old one(s)? (4.7) Will my ferret get along with my other pets? 5. *** Things you'll need *** (5.1) What will I need to take care of my new ferret? (5.2) Do I need a cage? How should I set it up? (5.3) Pet stores use wood shavings as bedding. Should I? (5.4) What kind of litter should I use? (5.5) What kind of collar/bell/tag should I use? (5.6) Any suggestions on toys? - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 3. *** Introduction to ferrets *** ------------------------------ Subject: (3.1) What are ferrets? Do they make good pets? Ferrets are domestic animals, cousins of weasels, skunks and otters. (Other relatives include minks, ermines, stoats, badgers, black-footed ferrets, polecats, and fishers.) They are not rodents; taxonomically they're in between cats and dogs, a little closer to dogs. They are friendly and make excellent pets. If you've never met one before, the easiest way to think of them is somewhere between cats and dogs in personality, but rather smaller. Some are cuddly, others more independent; they vary a lot, just like other pets. Ferrets are a lot of fun. They are very playful, with each other and with you, and they don't lose much of that playfulness as they get older. A ferret -- or better, two or more [4.2] -- can be a very entertaining companion. They are smarter than cats and dogs, or at least they act it. They are also very inquisitive and remarkably determined, which is part of their charm but can also be a bit of a bother. They are friendly, and they do know and love you, though for some of them it can take a year or so to fully bond. They can be trained to use a litter box and to do tricks, and most of them love to go places with you, riding on a shoulder or in a bag. They sleep a lot, and they don't particularly mind staying in small places (a cage, for instance, or a shoulder bag) temporarily, although they need to run around and play for at least a couple of hours a day. A "single" ferret won't be terribly lonely, although the fun of watching two or three playing together is easily worth the small extra trouble [4.2]. Ferrets have lots of good points as pets, but there are some negatives as well. Like kittens and puppies, they require a lot of care and training at first [6.5, 6.6]. They're "higher maintenance" than cats; they'll take more of your time and attention. Although most ferrets get along reasonably well with cats and dogs, it's not guaranteed, so if you have large, aggressive pets (particularly dogs of breeds commonly used for hunting), keep that in mind. Likewise, small children and ferrets are both very excitable, and the combination might be too much [3.6]. Finally, the importance of ferretproofing must be emphasized. Ferrets are less destructive than cats, but they love to get into EVERYTHING, so if you keep them loose you'll need to make sure they can't hurt themselves or your possessions [6.1]. They love to steal small (and not so small!) objects and stash them under chairs and behind furniture. They like to chew on spongy, springy things, which must be kept out of reach or they'll swallow bits. Accessible boxes, bags, and trash cans will be crawled in, and houseplants within reach are liable to lose all their dirt to joyful digging. Finally, many ferrets tend to scratch and dig at the carpet. Naturally, these traits vary from one ferret to another, but they're all pretty common. If you're not willing to take the necessary time to protect your property and your pet, a ferret may not be for you. ------------------------------ Subject: (3.2) Are ferrets wild? Why are there ferret permits? Domestic pet ferrets, Mustela putorius furo, are not wild animals. They were probably first domesticated by the Egyptians about three thousand years ago. If yours got free it would not survive; it would almost certainly die of dehydration or starvation within a few days. Unlike cats and dogs, ferrets aren't even large enough to push over garbage cans and scavenge. In the past, and some still today, domestic ferrets were used as hunting animals to catch rabbits and rodents. They weren't supposed to kill the prey, they just chased them out of their holes and the farmers (hunters) killed them. This practice is now illegal in most, if not all, of the U.S. and Canada. Most of the misconceptions regarding domestic ferrets probably come from mistaking them for their wild cousins. It's very difficult to tell a polecat or a mink from a domestic ferret when all you've seen is a flash of fur disappearing into a burrow, and polecats and minks are quite common in the less-developed areas of Europe and North America. Because of the similar names, domestic ferrets have also been confused with their cousins the North American Black-Footed Ferrets, Mustela nigripes. Black-footed ferrets (BFFs) are wild remote relatives of the domestic ferret. They are an endangered species: the only BFFs known to exist are in zoos or in a breeding program in Wyoming. However, despite quite similar appearances, the BFF is very unlikely to be an ancestor of the domestic ferret, since the latter were first domesticated in Egypt and only brought to North America comparatively recently. Domestic ferrets are generally believed to be descended from the European polecat. Some people have also compared, or confused, domestic ferrets with weasels, which is rather like comparing a pet dog to a fox -- they're related, but they're not the same; or with mongooses, which is more like comparing a dog and a bear. Neither gives much useful information. A "ferret-free zone," or FFZ, is a place where ferrets are banned or illegal [4.3]. In some other places, ferret owners are required to have licenses or permits. States, counties, and municipalities outlaw or restrict ferrets for a variety of reasons, but by far the most common is the mistaken belief that they're wild animals and should be treated in the same way as squirrels or raccoons. In the face of overwhelming evidence, many of these areas are being persuaded to change their outdated regulations. ------------------------------ Subject: (3.3) What's the average ferret lifespan? Ferrets live an average of 6-10 years, barring accidents. ------------------------------ Subject: (3.4) What do you call a group of ferrets? The most commonly accepted phrase is "a business of ferrets". Some people spell it "busyness" instead. Another possibility, "fesnyng," is thought to be due to a misreading of "bysnys" long ago. ------------------------------ Subject: (3.5) I'm allergic to cats. Will I be allergic to ferrets? There's really no way to tell. You could be highly allergic to some other animal and have no problems at all with ferrets. If you think you might be allergic, visit a pet store, breeder or friend who has one and check. I've lost the note, but one person wrote me to say she (he?) was allergic only to intact males, so you may want to try contact with females or neutered males as well. Also note that some people are allergic to the perfumes pet stores often put on animals, but not to the animals themselves. ------------------------------ Subject: (3.6) What's this I hear about ferrets attacking babies? There are a lot of stories floating around about this, some more true than others. Ferrets are unfamiliar to most people, so it's easier for them to make sweeping statements on the basis of a tiny amount of information. Some of the reports are simply rumor, or the result of confusing another animal with a ferret. Others are based in fact, but omit important information (for instance, that the child and pets had clearly been neglected or abused prior to the attack). Still others are unfortunately true. However, plenty of children have been attacked and even killed by dogs and cats. The number of people injured by ferrets each year is a tiny fraction of the number wounded or killed by dogs. People don't claim that all dogs and cats are too dangerous for pets, but rather that more responsible parenting and pet ownership is needed. It is definitely necessary to monitor interactions between young children and ANY pets closely, and to make sure children know the proper way to handle pets. A living creature needs, and deserves, to be treated with more care than a toy. Ferrets in particular love to pounce and wrestle when they play, which may frighten children, and children tend to play rather roughly, which may prompt a more vigorous response from an active ferret than from a typical cat. According to Chris Lewis, former moderator of the Ferret Mailing List [1.3]: The FML has carried confirmed reports of two, possibly three, cases where an animal identified as a "ferret" has seriously injured, and in one case, I believe, killed, infants. One in the UK, and one or two in the US. In none of these cases has it been proven that the animal was a ferret - particularly in the UK, it is quite possible that the animal was actually an European polecat which are raised for fur and sometimes for hunting (in the UK). And in each case gross child and animal abuse is well documented. But it's important to remember, that even the most pessimistic statistics on ferrets show that a ferret is about a thousand times *less* likely to cause injury than a dog. Indeed, every year there are hundreds of very serious or fatal dog attacks in the US alone. Worst case statistics show approximately 12 ferret attacks ever recorded in the US. Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, adds: I can say from personal experience that there are many, many more bite incidents with the household dog or cat, and that either of these species tend to do a lot more damage. I have seen children require over a hundred facial stitches from getting between the dog and its food, but never anything like this with a ferret. But I've also been nailed by my share of ferrets too. Personally, I don't recommend ferrets for people with children under 6 or 7 - either the child or the ferret ends up getting hurt. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 4. *** Getting a pet ferret *** ------------------------------ Subject: (4.1) Which color is the best? Male or female? What age? As with people, a ferret's inherent personality is more important than color or gender. Nevertheless, there is some thought that cinnamon ferrets tend to be more docile than other colors, probably because it's a recent addition to the list of colors, so most of them have been bred from long-time pet stock. Basically, though, choose the color according to your own preference. There's no consistent personality difference between a (neutered) male and a female. Males are generally considerably larger, around 18" and 3-5 pounds (in the US; European-bred ferrets differ a bit) compared to 15" and 1-3 pounds for females. Males' heads are usually wider, which can give them a more cat-like appearance. If you're getting an unneutered ferret, bear in mind that the cost to spay a female can be higher than the cost to neuter a male. (Unless you're specifically planning to breed them, you will NEED to "alter" your pets [8.1].) There are two contradictory opinions regarding what age ferret is best for a new owner. Adults tend to be a bit calmer and may already be litter- and nip-trained [6.5, 6.6], but they are larger and may have acquired bad habits, too. Kits are very cute, and their small size and (for a young kit) sleepiness can be less intimidating for a new owner, but they require a little more care and training and will become very active before too long. ------------------------------ Subject: (4.2) How many should I get? All at once, or one at a time? Ferrets don't need other ferrets to be happy, but if you won't be around much, two or more will keep each other company. They'll also be more fun, but more responsibility. Many people have three, five or more ferrets, which may be more fun than you can take. :-) I'd recommend getting one at first, so you can get to know it, and it you. There's some advantage to only having to train one at a time, too. I'd suggest at least a few months between them, if you're going to get several, although it's certainly not necessary. If you decide you want more later, you can always get another; they usually get along just fine [4.6]. There's no problem mixing (neutered) ferrets of either gender in any combination. ------------------------------ Subject: (4.3) Are ferrets legal where I live? Do I need a license? Depending on where you live, ferrets may be completely unregulated, require a license to breed but not to own, require a permit to own, or be entirely illegal. This varies by state or province, county, and city. You can find out about your town by calling the local Wildlife Department or Fish and Game Department, the humane society, or veterinarians (recommended in that order). Note that some pet stores in FFZs sell ferrets anyway, so the presence of one in your corner store may not be any indication of their legality, and I wouldn't necessarily trust the pet store to be honest about local laws. Katie Fritz has compiled an extensive, though not complete, list of FFZs. If you have or want more information, contact her at fritz@ben.dev.upenn.edu or on CompuServe at 71257,3153. Here's a list of some of the larger places where ferrets are illegal. Michigan and the city and county of Baltimore have recently become ferret-friendly. Hurrah! California, Massachusetts, Hawaii Washington, DC; Dallas, Ft. Worth, San Antonio, Beaumont, and various other cities in TX; Bloomington and Burnsville, MN; Tulsa, OK; Salt Lake City, UT Many military bases ban ferrets. It seems to be at the discretion of the base commander. Although ferrets aren't actually illegal in New York City or Minneapolis, MN, they are not welcomed and may be confiscated or ticketed. Permits or licenses are required in order to own ferrets in the following places: New York State ($10/year), New Jersey ($10/year), Rhode Island ($10/year), Illinois (free). Permits are also required in St. Paul, MN, and may be difficult to obtain. These lists are by no means complete, so check locally before you buy a ferret. ------------------------------ Subject: (4.4) Where can I get a pet ferret? What should I look for? Many pet stores have ferrets, and there are often ads in the newspaper placed by small breeders [1.2] with kits to sell or people who want to sell older ferrets. You can also often find "rescue" ferrets at the local animal shelter, and there are shelters specifically for ferrets scattered around the country as well [1.2]. This may not be the best choice for a new owner, though, since rescue ferrets may have health or behavioral problems. (Many of them are healthy and loving, but if you've never dealt with any ferrets before you may not want to take the chance.) In any case, look for bright, clear eyes, healthy skin and whiskers, soft coat, and a curious, alert attitude. You can't tell just how a kit's colorings will turn out, but if you watch and handle a group for a while you can tell a surprising amount about their personalities. Young kits will generally be pretty sleepy and uncoordinated, but they'll grow out of that soon enough. ------------------------------ Subject: (4.5) What are these little blue dots on my ferret's ear? What's the deal with Marshall Farms? If your ferret has two blue dots tattooed in his right ear, chances are he's from Marshall Farms, a large breeder located in Western New York. Marshall Farms (MF) has been the subject of some controversy because they sell ferrets to laboratories as well as for pets. Some people feel that MF's efforts to produce genetically stable ferrets for lab use has resulted in their pets being genetically less healthy, but this has not been conclusively established. Several other breeders also mark dots in their kits' ears, so a tattooed ferret may not be from MF. Regardless, Marshall Farms ferrets are no less deserving of good homes and love than their unmarked kin, whatever your opinions about the establishment that bred them. Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, says: There has been a lot of rumors going around recently concerning Marshall Farms ferrets. I'm not sure where they got started, but let's try to put this subject to bed. Sure, Marshall Farms ferrets develop tumors. So do ALL ferrets [10.1.4]. We don't know why ferrets develop most tumors - we know that they are most likely to develop them between the ages of 4 and 6, but not why. But it is certainly not Marshall Farms' responsibility when a ferret that they sold two years ago develops a tumor... To my knowledge - there are no inherent "defects" with Marshall Farms ferrets. Occasionally, ferrets will have extra toes, as will dogs or even people. This is more a fact of life than anything else. I don't consider this a "defect", although Marshall Farms prefers to sell these animals rather than use them as breeding stock. I consider that far better than just euthanizing them. What other types of "defects" have people heard about? Don't get me wrong - I know that Marshall Farms is the biggest breeder of laboratory as well as pet ferrets. I don't condone laboratory research on ferrets, or other animals for that matter and I don't do any. But I have never seen any problems with Marshall Farms ferrets that I could relate to Marshall Farms. I have a Marshall Farms ferret. He is over 7 years old and perfectly healthy. I would have no worries about getting another Marshall farms ferret from a health standpoint should the opportunity present itself again. ------------------------------ Subject: (4.6) How should I introduce a new ferret to my old one(s)? Ferret play can look pretty rough, especially the kinds of dominance "arguments" an established ferret is likely to have with a new one. Generally ferrets won't actually injure each other, but careful supervision is required at first. To prevent biting, you can try spraying Bitter Apple [5.1] on the new ferret (be sure to keep it out of his eyes, though!). Keeping the new ferret separated, but in sight/smell of the old one (e.g., in a neighboring cage) can help speed familiarity, as can putting the new pet in the old one's cage or sleeping area while the other one's not there. Within a week or two they should get along all right and can share a cage, food dish, and water bottle. Of course, extreme cases do exist, but the longest I've read about new-ferret problems lasting is three months. ------------------------------ Subject: (4.7) Will my ferret get along with my other pets? Most ferrets don't get along with birds, fish, rabbits, rodents, lizards, and the like, though there are some exceptions. For a dog or cat, introduce them SLOWLY. Give the new animal a chance to explore the territory before introducing it to the other pets one at a time. For the first week or so, hold both animals (two humans is handy here) and just let them smell each other a few times a day. Over the next week or two, gradually give each animal a bit more freedom, watching them closely, until they're used to each other. Once you're convinced that they're used to each other and get along all right, let them interact freely, but supervise them for a while to be sure. It's generally believed that ferrets get along with cats better if they're introduced when the cat is still a kitten and is more willing to play. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 5. *** Things you'll need *** ------------------------------ Subject: (5.1) What will I need to take care of my new ferret? You will need: food for your ferret [6.2] a food dish (one hard to tip) a water dish (one hard to tip) or water bottle (see below) litter boxes (see below) litter [5.4] bedding [5.2] (not wood shavings [5.3]) a cage [5.2] ferret shampoo (baby shampoo works fine too) a collar and a little bell [5.5] pet claw clippers (large human-nail clippers work fine too) toys (ferretproofed) [5.6] a veterinarian, preferably one familiar with ferrets Linatone or Ferretone, if you can find them (see below and [6.3]) Bitter Apple or something similar (see below) a box or basket to be a bedroom [5.2] a harness and leash (optional) (see below) Ferretone and Linatone are similar vitamin supplements [6.3] that nearly every ferret considers a wonderful treat [6.4]. Bitter Apple is a bad-tasting liquid or paste intended to stop pets from chewing things. The paste will probably be much more effective. You may want an H-type harness and a leash. I've found a water bottle to be much more convenient than a water dish, since ferrets seem to love to play in, and tip over, water bowls. You will almost certainly need more than one litter pan, particularly if you have a large home. Small-size cat litter pans work fine, and for a travel cage or shoulder bag you can use a Rubbermaid-type plastic container intended for bread or ice cream (about 6 X 9 X 5 inches). Make sure the sides of the pan are at least 4 inches high, since ferrets habitually back into corners to deposit their wastes and you don't want messes over the sides of the pan. However, one side of the pan should be no more than an inch or two high, so your ferret can get in and out easily. This is especially true for a young kit. ------------------------------ Subject: (5.2) Do I need a cage? How should I set it up? Many people keep their ferrets in a cage or very well-ferretproofed [6.1] room whenever they can't be supervised. This drastically reduces the risks of digestive-tract blockages from swallowing indigestible objects [9.1, 10.2], injury, and escape. However, even if you plan to let your ferrets have the run of the house at all times, you'll want a cage at first for litter-training and other kinds of training [6.5, 6.6] as well as for temporary use. Aquarium tanks have enjoyed a certain popularity as ferret cages, but I think overall wire-mesh cages are better. Tanks are easier to clean, but they don't provide much ventilation at the bottom, and your ferret may feel somewhat isolated from whatever's going on in the room. Besides, a nice, big aquarium isn't exactly cheap. If you plan to keep your ferret caged whenever you're not home, and you'll be gone most of the day, a generous cage size is about 2 X 3 feet and 2 feet high (60 X 100 X 60 cm). A second or third ferret could share that size cage. If you'll only be using the cage temporarily, such as when you're vacuuming or taking your pet on a vacation [6.9], 1 X 2 X 1 feet (30 X 60 X 30 cm) is sufficient for one or two ferrets, perhaps three. For trips around town [6.9], a shoulder or duffel bag equipped with a litter pan and mesh window works well. In the cage, you'll want some sort of "bedroom" for your pet. A ferret won't be very happy sleeping on the open floor of a cage, even on (or, more likely, under) a towel, but any small cardboard box or basket works well as a bedroom. Old towels make excellent bedding [5.3], as long as they aren't too easily chewed to bits. Don't use wood shavings [5.3]. Other than food, water, a litter pan, bedding, and a bedroom, what you put in your ferret's cage is largely up to you. Hammocks made from old jeans or shirts and a set of metal eyelets are very popular for both napping and playing, and ramps, ledges, tunnels, and toys [5.6] will also be enjoyed. Just be sure nothing you put in your ferret's cage could hurt him, whether by catching a toe, being swallowed, or some other way. Also be sure your cage door fastens securely, perhaps even with a small lock, because ferrets can be very determined and rather intelligent escape artists. ------------------------------ Subject: (5.3) Pet stores use wood shavings as bedding. Should I? In short, no. Many pet stores and some breeders use cedar or pine shavings as bedding/cage lining for their ferrets, but it is not recommended. Cedar in particular has been associated with allergies and respiratory problems in various animals, including, for example, humans and rabbits, but pine and other woods also produce a fair amount of dust and such which isn't very good to breathe. Why take the chance? Furthermore, wood shavings are completely unnecessary. Ferrets are more like cats than hamsters: they'll be quite happy with a clean towel or old T-shirt placed in a small "bedroom box" or basket for sleeping. Sure, some pet stores and breeders use shavings, but they don't really have the option of using towels. If you need some authoritative information to convince your pet store to stop using wood shavings, here's an article by Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM: (The following short article may be reprinted by anyone desiring to disseminate this information in a newsletter or non-commercial publication. This material may not be altered or changed in any way. Under Title 17 of the U.S. Code, Section 105, copyright protection is not available for any work of the United States Government.) WHY NOT CEDAR SHAVINGS? For years, cedar shavings have been used as bedding for many species of small mammals including ferrets. Over the last ten years, increasing evidence is cropping up that this may not be a good choice. Cedar shavings, as well as other aromatic soft woods, such as white and yellow pines, release volatile hydrocarbons which affect those animals living in them. Plicatic acid, a volatile hydrocarbon, results in asthma in humans and rabbits. Other hydrocarbons result in changes in the liver, which may impair its ability to detoxify certain drugs, including various anesthetic agents. Cedar shavings have also been incriminated in increased mortality in rat pups, and various scientists over the years have alluded to possible carcinogenicity. In chicken litter, cedar shavings harbored more bacteria than other types of litter. On the more practical side, a 1986 article in Lab Animal evaluated many of the common bedding materials, also including hardwood chips, sawdust, paper chips, newspaper, ground corncob, rabbit pellets, straw, and hay (along with several others) for the following: absorbency, dust, endogenous effects on the animal, cost, use in nesting, and disposability. In all categories, cedar shavings was not recommended. Interestingly enough, paper products and heat-treated softwood chips scored highest overall. In my experience, ferrets are happiest in old sweatshirt or towels, which rarely cause problems. Beware, however, the bored caged ferret, who may ingest parts of these items for lack of other stimulation, and obtain a gastrointestinal foreign body in the process. References: 1. Weichbrod RH et al. Selecting bedding material. Lab Anim. Sept 1986, pp.25-29. 2. Kraft LM. The manufacture, shipping, receiving, and quality control of rodent bedding materials. Lab Animal Sci. 1980 pp. 366-372. 3. Weichbrod RH et. al. Effects of Cage Beddings on Microsomal Oxidative Enzymes in Rat Liver. Lab Animal Sci. 38(3): 296-298, 1988. 4. Hessler, JR. Design and Management of Animal Facilities. In Laboratory Animal Medicine, JG Fox, ed. Academic Press Inc, Orlando. 1984. 5. Chan H. et al. A rabbit model of hypersensitivity to plicatic acid, the agent responsible for red cedar asthma. J Allergy Clin Immunol 79(5) : 762-767. ------------------------------ Subject: (5.4) What kind of litter should I use? Some people have had problems with the clumping varieties of litter, due to some ferrets' habits of sniffing at their litter corners or dragging their rumps across the litter when done using it. The litter can get into their noses or rectums, where it clumps and causes problems. You may not want to take the chance. Likewise, cedar shavings are not recommended, for the same reasons that they don't make good bedding [5.3]. Other than that, any kind of litter meant for cats is okay for ferrets. You and your ferret may prefer one to another, since they all control or cover odors differently, track more or less dust, cost more or less, and so forth. Some people even use alfalfa pellets (rabbit food), which is often cheaper than cat litter but generally doesn't cover odor as well. If your pet is used to one and you switch, it may take a while for him to connect the scent of the new litter with where he's supposed to go. (Also see the information on litter training [6.6].) ------------------------------ Subject: (5.5) What kind of collar/bell/tag should I use? Depending on your ferret, either a nylon kitten collar, a thin, flat leather puppy collar, or a piece of ball chain will work well. The problem you may run into for a nylon collar is that some ferrets will scratch at it, which pulls the nylon threads and can tighten the collar dangerously. Also, be aware that both nylon and leather can shrink if they get wet, so never leave a wet collar on your pet; it may shrink and choke him as it dries. For either of the collars, you may need to make an extra hole, then trim off the extra length and (for nylon) melt the end together. Be sure to leave enough to go through the little ring after it's buckled. For the ball chain (the kind made for light-pulls or to lift the stopper in a toilet), just snip it to the proper length. We've never had any problems with either of our ferrets getting hurt by catching their collars in anything, but we make sure to leave them loose enough that the furry snakes can slip out if they happen to get caught. In fact, the easiest way we've found to get the collars on is to fasten them, then shove them over the ferrets' heads while occupying them with Ferretone. A small cat bell and small-size plastic tag have worked well for us on a kit as young as 9 weeks. I strongly suggest getting the S-shaped hook for the tag rather than the split ring, since the rings have a tendency to loosen. Twice one of our ferrets got hers caught in a sweater or blanket -- which both frightened her and unraveled the item she was frantically rolling in before she pulled out of the collar. For a nylon or leather collar, you'll probably want to poke the S-hook directly through the collar and put the bell and tag on the same hook, though, since attaching them to the ring on the collar makes them hang down far enough to drag on the ground. Neither of our slinkies seems to mind wearing a collar, although the first time we put it on our older pet she spent 15 minutes trying to convince us she was dying and then the next hour playing with the jingly toy that followed her wherever she went. In short, I strongly recommend tags and bells for all ferrets. Ours have never gotten out, but even just around the house it gives enormous peace of mind to be able to tell where they are! ------------------------------ Subject: (5.6) Any suggestions on toys? Cat toys work well for ferrets, though you need to be sure they don't have any small, removable parts or foam stuffing which might cause digestive-tract blockages [10.2]. Most ferrets are rather harder on toys than a cat would be, so choose accordingly. Plastic balls, with or without bells, work well if they are not easily broken or swallowed (the little "webbed" ones break too easily). Soft vinyl rubber is okay, but not the spongy kind -- it's too easily shredded and swallowed. For hard rubber toys, be sure they can't get stuck in your ferret's mouth, and take them away when they start to crack. Cat squeaky toys are good if they're tough enough to stand up to chewing and easily squeaked. Catnip won't hurt ferrets, but it doesn't affect them like it does cats. Most ferrets enjoy playing in a hammock made from a piece of cloth and some metal eyelets, and the leg from an old pair of jeans will be fun to crawl through or nap in. For other toys, try umbrellas, bathrobe belts, tennis balls, golf balls, large unshelled nuts (rinsed to wash off any pesticides), or old socks with bells rolled up in them. Plastic shopping bags are popular, but watch to be sure your pets don't suffocate or eat the plastic. Carpet-roll tubes and tunnels made of plastic pipe are popular too. An excellent, inexpensive toy is a piece of plastic dryer hose about 4" (10 cm) in diameter. Wrap any loose wire ends. Be sure that your real dryer hose is out of reach (or get a metal one), since you're showing your pets that dryer hoses are great fun to crawl through. No matter what you decide your ferret's toys are, he or she will almost undoubtedly choose some household items you never expected, as well. Keep anything that would be damaged with a little chewing, or that might hurt your pet, well out of reach. Unfortunately, digging up houseplants is also enormous fun to a ferret, but there are some things you can do to protect your plants [6.1]. == End of Part II == -- - Pam Greene <pgreene@optics.rochester.edu> Ferret Central - <http://www.ceas.rochester.edu:8080/ee/users/rhode/index.html> Ferret FAQ - GET ANSWERS PACKAGE FERRET in mail to <listserv@cunyvm.cuny.edu> Archive-name: ferret-faq/part3 Last-modified: 7 Feb 95 Version: 2.4 FERRET FAQ (part 3 of 5) -- CARE AND BEHAVIOR Compiled and edited by Pamela Greene <pgreene@optics.rochester.edu> Additions, corrections, and suggestions for this file are welcomed! This document is copyright 1994, 1995 by Pamela L. Greene. See section 0.5 (in Part I, About the Ferret FAQ) for authorship information and redistribution rights. In short, you can give it away, but you can't charge for it. The basic Ferret FAQ has five parts, all of which should be available wherever you obtained this one. Most people will want to look at parts 1 through 4, and perhaps skim part 5. A complete table of contents for all five files is given in Part I. Please at least read section 0 in Part I, About this FAQ. In addition, there are separate FAQ's for several common ferret diseases. Information about those is given in section [1.1]. Please note: I am not a ferret expert, and I did not write, nor did I independently verify, all the information in this file. I have done my best to include only accurate and useful information, but I cannot guarantee that what is contained in this file, whether written by me or by one of the contributors, is correct, or even that following the advice herein won't be harmful to you or your ferret in some way. For advice from an expert, you may wish to consult one of several books available, or, especially in the case of a suspected medical problem, a veterinarian who is familiar with the treatment of ferrets. ------------------------------ Subject: CONTENTS OF THIS FILE Part III: CARE AND BEHAVIOR 6. *** Basic ferret care and training *** (6.1) How can I best ferretproof my home? (6.2) What should I feed my ferret? (6.3) Should I give my ferret any supplements? (6.4) What are good treats? (6.5) How do I train my pet not to nip? (6.6) I'm having problems litter-training. What do I do? (6.7) Any advice on baths, ears, and nail-clipping? (6.8) Can I teach my ferret tricks? How? (6.9) Do ferrets travel well? 7. *** Things ferrets say and do *** (7.1) How do I know if my ferret likes something? (7.2) My ferret trembles a lot. Is that normal? (7.3) Help! My ferret is going bald! (7.4) Is he really just asleep? (7.5) What does such-and-such a noise mean? (7.6) What games do ferrets like to play? (7.7) What else should I probably not worry about? - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 6. *** Basic ferret care and training *** ------------------------------ Subject: (6.1) How can I best ferretproof my home? Ferretproofing a home basically involves blocking off all the holes around your baseboards, removing anything spongy from reach, moving fragile items out of the way, and making sure your closets and cabinets close securely. Ferrets love to worm their way into any little hole (as small as 2 X 2 inches, or smaller for kits and some adults), which can be very bad if the hole in question is under a refrigerator or other appliance, into a wall, or outside. Crawl around on your stomach to look for holes near the floor, especially in the kitchen and laundry area. Even holes inside cabinets (which are particularly common in apartments, where plumbers are often rather sloppy) should be blocked, just in case. Also watch out for heaters or furnace ducts. You can block openings with wood or wire mesh, and at least one Ferret Mailing List recipient had good luck with aluminum foil, since most ferrets don't like to chew it. Many ferrets are good climbers and jumpers. They can get onto a sofa, into a trash can, onto the third shelf of a set of bookcases, into a bathtub, into the opening on the back of a stereo speaker, or over the gate you thought would keep them in the spare room (a two-foot barrier will probably do the job). They can also open cabinets, unzip backpacks, and climb into some drawers from underneath. Apart from obvious dangers such as electrical cords (which ferrets don't, generally, like to chew) and bottles of household cleaners and chemicals (which they do like to drink), be particularly careful with sponges, erasers, shoe insoles, Silly Putty, foam rubber (even inside a cushion or mattress), styrofoam, insulation, rubber door stoppers, and anything else spongy or springy. Ferrets love to chew on that kind of thing, and swallowed bits can cause intestinal blockages [10.2]. Also be aware that ferrets like to dig in and possibly chew on houseplants, and some common ones are quite poisonous. Plants can be protected from digging (but not chewing) by putting large rocks or metal mesh over the tops of their pots. If your ferret claws at the carpet, try putting down a piece of plastic carpet protector. Finally, once your home is done, bear in mind that your couch cushions and throw rugs may be hiding napping ferrets. Look before you sit! ------------------------------ Subject: (6.2) What should I feed my ferret? Most people feed their ferrets high-quality cat food, such as Iams, Science Diet, or ProPlan. High-quality food may cost a bit more, but your pet will eat a lot less and be much healthier. We've found that an 8-pound bag of dry food (usually $10-$15) lasts two ferrets a couple of months, so the cost of feeding them even high-quality food is not very great. The key ingredient is protein, specifically animal protein, since ferrets' short digestive cycles prevent them from getting enough sustenance from vegetable proteins. Look for chicken or poultry, not fish. The food needs to have at least 32% protein, and animal protein should be listed first in the ingredients. Because of this protein requirement, ferrets up to three or four years old should get kitten or "growth" foods. Older ferrets can have kidney problems from too much protein, though, so they should be switched to the cat versions. Unless your ferret is overweight, you can just keep her bowl full and let her eat as much as she wants. Soft cat food is not good for ferrets, partly because it generally contains much less protein than the dry kind and partly because it isn't hard enough to rub plaque off their teeth and can lead to tooth decay. However, very young kits and those recovering from illness or surgery may need their food moistened with water for a week or two. Note that moistened food spoils much more quickly than the same food left dry, so dump out leftovers every day. Several kinds of food meant specifically for ferrets also exist. Ferrets do just fine on cat food, though, and in my experience they like it better than ferret food. If you decide to use a ferret food, check its label just as carefully as you would for cat food: just because it says it's formulated for ferrets doesn't mean it really is. Dog food is NOT acceptable, as it lacks some nutrients ferrets (and cats) need. Among other things, ferrets and cats both need taurine, which is found naturally in poultry; many cat and ferret foods supplement it as well. Some people like to give their ferrets a daily portion of Ferret Soup [11.1] in addition to their regular dry food, to add variety and nutrients, but it's not necessary. Every so often, a discussion starts up about ethoxyquin, which is used in many pet foods to preserve the unsaturated fats. In short, it's very unlikely that there's any problem. The amount of ethoxyquin used in cat food is far below the maximum concentration allowed by the FDA. No adverse effects have been shown; in fact, ethoxyquin has been shown to have an anticancer effect in cats. Foods which don't contain ethoxyquin use high levels of vitamin E instead, at greatly increased cost and generally reduced shelf life. In general, feeding your pet a variety of foods, rather than just one brand, is probably a good idea. Ferrets are known to be finicky eaters, and if the brand you've been using is suddenly unavailable, you may run into problems if it's all your pets will recognize as edible. To switch from brand A to brand B, start mixing them before you run out of A. Add B a little at a time until they're getting half each, then phase out A. (Also see information on supplements [6.3], as well as fruits, vegetables, and treats [6.4].) ------------------------------ Subject: (6.3) Should I give my ferret any supplements? Ferretone and Linatone are two popular vitamin supplements. They are also one of the most common treats, since nearly every ferret loves them. They're very similar and can be used interchangeably, although their exact composition is a bit different. Both of these contain vitamin A, which can be very harmful or even fatal in excess, though it probably takes a whole lot more than you'd ever give your ferret. However, like hairball remedies, too much Ferretone or Linatone can give your ferrets loose stools. No more than a few drops to one pump a day is recommended, and it's not thought to be necessary to give them any at all if you're using a good food. Similarly, many people give their ferrets a small amount of a cat hairball remedy such as Laxatone or Petromalt on a regular basis. This can help them pass the styrofoam, rubber bands, and such that they seem to love to eat, as well as helping to prevent hairballs from fur swallowed during grooming. Even better, most ferrets seem to think of this as a wonderful treat, too. As with all treats and supplements, give them only in moderation; you can estimate how much by taking the recommended cat dosage and adjusting for a ferret's smaller weight. ------------------------------ Subject: (6.4) What are good treats? Most ferrets also enjoy some fruits and vegetables. Although they're not necessary for good nutrition if you're feeding your pets a high-quality cat food, small amounts of these won't hurt. Just be sure you don't fill your ferret up on fruit, since he'll need to eat his regular food to get the required protein. Too much of nearly anything can be harmful, so try to vary your treats. Some popular suggestions: a slice of banana (mashed, so it's more digestible), raisins, bits of pear, peppermint (small licks), freeze-dried liver (sold as cat treats), Pounce cat treats, puffed rice cakes, green beans, wheat crackers, Ferretone, Petromalt [6.3]... Try feeding your ferret pretty much anything, in small pieces. You never know what yours will consider a fabulous treat. I've heard of ferrets going wild for everything from spaghetti to blueberries. Although most ferrets love milk and ice cream, they shouldn't be allowed to have much. This is especially true for young kits, since the lactose in cow's milk gives ferrets diarrhea, which can easily cause them to become dehydrated. I'm told that goat's milk, available in some pet stores, is okay, but I haven't seen any verification of this. Too much fiber can also give ferrets diarrhea, so limit raisins, bananas, prunes, oatmeal, apples, and anything with bran in it. Sugary treats aren't good for them either, since they can cause to dental problems and may also contribute to the development of diabetes. Be very careful with chocolate. Most ferrets like it, but the xanthines found in it are strong stimulants and can be dangerous to them. It's not recommended as a treat. ------------------------------ Subject: (6.5) How do I train my pet not to nip? Like kittens and puppies, ferret kits must be taught not to nip. A ferret which has been bred to be a pet shouldn't be vicious or bite, but ferret play does include mock combat, and young ones won't know how hard they can put their teeth on you without hurting you. A playing ferret may run at you with his mouth open or even put his teeth on your hand, but if he presses down hard enough to hurt, you need to discipline him. Just remember, ferrets aren't malicious, they just need to learn what behavior is acceptable. Positive reinforcement (giving treats [6.4]) generally works better than punishment. Similarly, don't set the ferret down when he struggles and nips -- you'll be teaching him that that's the way to get what he wants. Flicking the ferret's nose while his teeth are on you is a pretty popular form of discipline; but if it doesn't work, you'll end up doing it too often, which will make your ferret associate you with bad things rather than good ones. There are also several alternatives: If the ferret is biting too hard in play, try using a signal he already understands: a high-pitched "Yip!" (or "Hey!" or whatever), like the noise one kit makes when another is playing too roughly. He should learn pretty quickly how far he can go. Confining the misbehaving ferret to a cage [5.2] and ignoring him for a few minutes can be effective, especially if there's another ferret wandering around conspicuously having fun. You can cover your hands with Bitter Apple, either the spray or the paste, so nipping tastes bad. Those ferrets who go limp when scruffed generally hate it. You might also shake the ferret while he's hanging in midair, or drag him along the floor while you hiss. Both these mimic the way mother ferrets reprimand their kits. Obviously, don't be so rough that you hurt him. You can also cover his face with your hand, which he probably won't like. ------------------------------ Subject: (6.6) I'm having problems litter-training. What do I do? Start your ferret out in a small area, perhaps his cage [5.2], and expand his space gradually as he becomes better trained. Keep a little dirty litter in his pan at first, to mark it as a bathroom and to deter him from digging in it. Don't let it get too dirty, though; some ferrets can be pretty finicky about their pans. Whenever you notice your ferret backing into a pan, give him a little treat [6.4] and lots of praise as he comes out. Even if he didn't actually use it, it'll still reinforce the idea. Ferrets generally use their pans within fifteen minutes of waking up, so don't let yours out of his cage until he at least sniffs the pan to show he's thought about it. When he's out running around for playtime, keep a close eye on him, and put him in his litter pan every half hour or so, or whenever you see him "pick up a magazine and start to back into a corner" (as one FML subscriber put it). Positive reinforcement (treats and praise) are usually much more effective than any punishment, but if you need one, use cage time, and don't let him out until he backs into the pan. If your ferret has a favorite corner, you have a few choices. You could put a pan (or newspaper, if it's a tight spot) in it; ferrets have short legs and attention spans, so you'll probably need several pans around your home anyway. Otherwise, you can try putting a crumpled towel in the corner, making it look more like a potential napping spot than a latrine. Finally, putting a food dish in the well-cleaned corner, perhaps with a crumpled towel around it, might do the trick. "Accident" corners should be cleaned with bleach or another bad-smelling disinfectant (don't let your ferret onto it 'till it dries!), specifically so they don't continue to smell like ferret bathrooms but also as a general deterrent. For the same reason, you probably shouldn't clean litter pans with bleach, certainly not the same one you're using as a deterrent elsewhere. Although almost every ferret can be trained to use a litter pan, there is individual variation. Ferrets just aren't as diligent about their pans as most cats, so there will be an occasional accident. Even well-trained ferrets tend to lose track of their litter pans when they're particularly frightened or excited, or if they're in a new house or room. In general you can expect at least a 90% "hit" rate, though some ferrets just don't catch on as well and some do considerably better. At least ferrets are small, so their accidents are pretty easy to clean up. ------------------------------ Subject: (6.7) Any advice on baths, ears, and nail-clipping? Most people like to bathe their ferrets pretty often, since it can help keep the odor down and they don't seem to mind it. Frequent bathing can cause dry skin, though, especially in winter, so be careful. Once every week or two should be okay, but switch to less often if you have problems. Some ferrets enjoy a bath quite a bit, swimming around in the tub and diving for the drain plug. The first step in bathing a ferret (well, after catching her) is to check her nails and trim them if necessary. Jim Lapeyre describes the recommended procedure like this: Thus saith the Wise: "When Haz-Abuminal saw that clipping the claws of the domestic ferret was grievous, he pondered day and night for a year and a day. After the year and the day had passed, he rose, and, taking the ferret in his lap, dropped three drops of Linatone upon the belly [of the ferret], which, perceiving that its navel had Linatone, turned to lick. Thus distracted, the ferret heeded not that the claws were being trimmed, and there was much rejoicing. And when the claws were all neatly trimmed, the people were amazed and astonished, saying, Who is this who, alone among mankind, has tricked a ferret?" If you have trouble even with this method, and you have a helper, have the helper hold the ferret by the scruff of the neck and put Ferretone on one of his fingers. Scruffing a ferret will generally make her calm down and possibly even go limp, and if not, the Ferretone should keep her distracted. Cut the nail just longer than the pink line inside it. Place the cut parallel to where the floor will be when the ferret stands, to prevent the tip from breaking later. Be careful not to nick the line or the toe, since in either case it'll bleed a lot and your ferret will decide nail clipping is not a good thing. Kwik-Stop or some other styptic powder is good to have around in case this happens, to stop the bleeding quickly. Next you should check your pet's ears. They shouldn't need cleaning more than once a month at most, but if they seem unduly dirty, dampen a cotton swab with sweet oil (made for cleaning babies' ears) or lukewarm water (only if dry skin is not a problem) and gently clean them. Hold the swab along the animal's head rather than poking it into the ear, to avoid injuring the ear. Yellowish or brownish-red ear wax is normal, but if you see any black substance your pet probably has ear mites, which should be taken care of [9.6]. There's also a product made for cleaning cats' ears, which you just squirt in and they shake out. Your vet should be able to tell you about it. Now fill a tub or kitchen sink partway with lukewarm water. It should feel comfortable on your wrist. If you want to let your pet play in the water, fill a tub just deeper than the ferret is tall, and provide some sort of support (a box in the tub) in case she gets tired of swimming. Finally, bathe the ferret. Ferret shampoos are available, or no-tears baby shampoo works fine too. Wet the ferret completely, either in one half of a double sink or in a tub. Lather her from head to tail; don't worry about her eyes if you're using a no-tears shampoo. Our ferrets both start to struggle at this point, which seems to be because they don't like hanging in midair while being washed. We let them put their hind legs on the side of the tub while they're being washed. Rinse the ferret thoroughly in clear, warm running water. Older, sick, or weak ferrets can be gently cleaned using baby oil, which can also help get gooey things out of fur. Drying a dripping ferret can be a lot of fun or a real hassle, depending on your own preference. I find it's easiest to keep the ferret in a towel at chest-level, holding her head and torso in one hand while drying her with the other. Wearing a terry bathrobe is helpful here too. You could also put your ferret on the floor in a towel and rub her dry, but she'll probably think you're playing a rowdy game of tousle and try to run away. Once you've got her mostly dry, put her somewhere warm with a dry towel to roll in and she'll finish the job, although it's been mentioned that a damp ferret seems to lose all sense of judgment, suddenly thinking that walls, cage floors, milk cartons, and everything -except- the towel must be remarkably water-absorbent. You can also try using a hair dryer on its coolest setting, but many ferrets won't stand for that. Immediately after a bath, many ferrets pretty much go nuts, thrashing and bouncing from side to side and rolling against everything in sight. Mainly they're trying to dry themselves, with a good bit of general excitement from the bath and drying process too. ------------------------------ Subject: (6.8) Can I teach my ferret tricks? How? Yes, ferrets are plenty smart enough to learn to sit up, turn around, roll over, stay on your shoulders or in a hood, and perhaps even walk on a leash. To train your ferret to stay on your shoulders, for instance, stand over a pile or basket of crumpled newspaper, and when she falls into it, shout, "No!" The combination of the fall, the noise, and your shout should persuade her to pay more attention to staying on. Give her a treat when she does, and she should learn quickly. The trick to all of these is getting your pet's attention while you teach her. Don't try teaching tricks, or even trying to get a ferret to perform, in an unexplored area -- it's nearly futile. Unlike dogs, ferrets generally won't do a trick for the sheer joy of it, or simply to please you. Usually there must be some kind of reward expected [6.4], though that could be anything from a lick of Ferretone to a bite of apple to a good head-scratching. ------------------------------ Subject: (6.9) Do ferrets travel well? In general, yes. Around town Ferrets love going places. You can fix up a shoulder bag with a litter pan and space for a water bottle and food dish and carry them with you wherever they're welcome. Automobile travel Car trips don't seem to bother ferrets, although being closed up in a travel cage may irritate them -- and you, if they scratch to get out. Keeping them loose in the car is not recommended, since they could get under the driver's feet or through some undetected hole into the engine compartment or onto the road. You can use a water bottle in a car, but fasten a deep dish or cup underneath it, since it will drip, and put down a towel to soak up the inevitable spills. Airplane travel Only a few airlines allow ferrets on board their planes, in under-seat cat carriers, for an additional charge. (America West does. Any others?) Sending your ferret in the cargo area is not generally recommended, largely due to problems people have had with temperature, pressure and general handling of pets who travel this way. Several people have been able to sneak their ferrets aboard aircraft by taking them through the security checks hidden in bulky coats, then transferring them to a duffel bag in a restroom, but I have no experience with that. Tranquilizing the ferret isn't recommended -- it'll disorient him, and ferrets sleep a lot anyway. Hotels Many hotels allow pets in cages, although it's a good idea to call ahead and make sure. Also leave a note to reassure the maids. Canada/U.S. border crossings According to a brochure I received from Canadian Customs, pet ferrets accompanying their owners from the U.S. into Canada don't need any special health certificates or import licenses. Bringing them back into the U.S. may be more difficult, though all I needed was a rabies certificate and proof that the ferrets came from the U.S. in the first place (a NY state license, in my case; if you don't have one, register your pets with U.S. Customs before you enter Canada). I don't know much about Canadian residents bringing ferrets into the U.S. or taking them back home. Legal issues You should also check with the Wildlife Departments of any areas you'll be passing through or staying in to make sure that ferrets are allowed, and carry documentation of the vaccines your pets have had, just in case. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 7. *** Things ferrets say and do *** ------------------------------ Subject: (7.1) How do I know if my ferret likes something? If he stays still for your petting, plays with his toys, grabs the treat from you, or "chuckles" while playing, he likes it. ------------------------------ Subject: (7.2) My ferret trembles a lot. Is that normal? Generally, yes. Ferrets normally tremble for two reasons. First, they often shiver right after waking up, in order to raise their body temperatures. Second, they shake or quiver when excited or frightened. For a young kit, this could well be all the time, since everything is new and interesting. For older ferrets, a bath or even a good scolding could prompt trembling. If your ferret's trembling persists with no apparent cause, first make sure there's no cold draft around. (Ferrets can live fine outdoors, with blankets and shade, but indoor lighting can cause their winter coats not to come in until long after it's gotten cold enough outside to need one.) If that's not the problem, check with a vet. ------------------------------ Subject: (7.3) Help! My ferret is going bald! Ferrets shed their coats twice a year, in the fall and spring. The times for these changes vary somewhat for ferrets kept in indoor lighting conditions. Fur will come out by the handful, all over the ferret, and his coat may look a bit sparse before the new one grows in. Otherwise, baldness can be caused by several things. Poor nutrition, a severe mite infection, and dry skin are possibilities. A nearly bald tail can be caused by the shedding cycle or by stress, and is not uncommon in intact animals during breeding season. Finally, baldness is also the most noticeable symptom of adrenal lesions in ferrets [10.2]. Any unexplained hair loss should be checked out quickly. If it begins on the tail and progresses forward, eventually leaving hair only on the head and extremities, that's almost certainly the problem. See a vet immediately. As Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, says: By far the most common cause of hair loss in the ferret is adrenal-associated endocrinopathy, which is the result of excessive secretion of estrogen from a hyperfunctioning adrenal gland. Most tests will never pick this up, unless you test the blood specifically for the presence of increased estrogen (and then only 30% will be picked up). The best procedure at this time to determine the likelihood of adrenal disease is exploratory surgery to evaluate the size of the adrenal gland. If an enlarged gland is found, it is removed, and generally the hair will grow back. The longer the animal is bald however, the less chance of the hair coming back. ------------------------------ Subject: (7.4) Is he really just asleep? In general, ferrets sleep quite a bit, even adults. A two- to four- hour playtime followed by a several-hour nap is typical. Ferrets sometimes appear to be sleeping with their eyes partly open, and they sleep very heavily, often not waking even when picked up. You can take advantage of this and try to cut their nails while they're asleep. It means you have to be especially careful where you walk and sit, though. ------------------------------ Subject: (7.5) What does such-and-such a noise mean? Clucking, "dooking," or chuckling Indicates happiness or excitement. Often uttered while playing or exploring a new area. Occasional sneezes If you crawled under bookcases and couches, you'd sneeze too. Also, ferrets have a pair of scent glands near their chins, and sneezing can be a way of forcing some of the scent out so it can be rubbed on something. Whimpering/whining Kits, especially, do this as a general excitement noise. It can also be uttered by the loser in a wrestling match. Hissing Frustration or anger. Ferrets often hiss while they're fighting, even if it's just in play. Screeching/loud chittering Extreme fright or pain. This is your cue that it's time to go rescue your pet from whatever it's gotten itself into. It can also be a sign of anger. ------------------------------ Subject: (7.6) What games do ferrets like to play? Most ferrets enjoy mock combat, chase, tug-o'-war, hide-and-seek, and so forth, with each other or with you. Ours love to bounce around on our fluffy comforter, swat at us from behind the bookcases, and attack each other through the throw rugs. If your ferret jumps back and forth in front of you or tugs on your pants leg, he wants to play. An appropriate response would be to get down on your hands and knees and chase him around, or to dangle a washcloth in front of him and start a tugging game, for instance. Ferrets like to jump and climb. They're good at finding complicated ways up to desks or closet shelves, but not very good at judging heights. Be careful about how high your pet can get, since he may try to jump down. For some reason, many ferrets wag their tails quickly when they have their front ends in a tube or under a rug and they see something interesting (a toy, a sock, another ferret) at the other end. Ferrets also love to swipe things and drag them into the most inaccessible location possible. Protect your keys and wallet. A happy ferret will "dance," flinging himself about on all fours with an arched back. Clucking is common too. Dancing or just careening into walls or bookcases is not at all uncommon, but ferrets seem to just bounce off of such obstacles. Unless they actually injure themselves, don't worry about them; they're having fun. ------------------------------ Subject: (7.7) What else should I probably not worry about? Scratching Ferrets just seem to be itchy little critters. If you don't see any fleas or "flea dust" (bits of dried blood), it's probably not fleas, so as long as the skin isn't irritated or balding don't worry about it. If you see little white flakes, it may be dry skin. Sniffing/wiping/licking the rear This is a normal thing to do, especially after a bath. It helps spread the ferret's scent around. Hiccups Hiccups are not uncommon, especialy in young kits, who sometimes seem alarmed by them. A comforting scritch, a drink of water, or a small treat [6.4] can help. == End of Part III == -- - Pam Greene <pgreene@optics.rochester.edu> Ferret Central - <http://www.ceas.rochester.edu:8080/ee/users/rhode/index.html> Ferret FAQ - GET ANSWERS PACKAGE FERRET in mail to <listserv@cunyvm.cuny.edu> Archive-name: ferret-faq/part4 Last-modified: 7 Feb 95 Version: 2.4 FERRET FAQ (part 4 of 5) -- HEALTH CARE Compiled and edited by Pamela Greene <pgreene@optics.rochester.edu> Additions, corrections, and suggestions for this file are welcomed! This document is copyright 1994, 1995 by Pamela L. Greene. See section 0.5 (in Part I, About the Ferret FAQ) for authorship information and redistribution rights. In short, you can give it away, but you can't charge for it. The basic Ferret FAQ has five parts, all of which should be available wherever you obtained this one. Most people will want to look at parts 1 through 4, and perhaps skim part 5. A complete table of contents for all five files is given in Part I. Please at least read section 0 in Part I, About this FAQ. In addition, there are separate FAQ's for several common ferret diseases. Information about those is given in section [1.1]. Please note: I am not a ferret expert, and I did not write, nor did I independently verify, all the information in this file. I have done my best to include only accurate and useful information, but I cannot guarantee that what is contained in this file, whether written by me or by one of the contributors, is correct, or even that following the advice herein won't be harmful to you or your ferret in some way. For advice from an expert, you may wish to consult one of several books available, or, especially in the case of a suspected medical problem, a veterinarian who is familiar with the treatment of ferrets. ------------------------------ Subject: CONTENTS OF THIS FILE Part IV: HEALTH CARE 8. *** Basic health care *** (8.1) Do I need to spay/neuter my pet? How about descenting? Declawing? (8.2) What vaccinations will my ferret need, and when? (8.3) Can I vaccinate my own ferrets? (8.4) What kind of checkups should my ferret be having? (8.5) Are ferrets really as prone to disease as it seems? (8.6) How do I contact Dr. Williams? I hear he'll look at ferret tissue for free, and help with diagnoses, too. 9. *** Problems to watch for and related information *** (9.1) What warning signs of disease should I watch for? (9.2) My ferret's had funny-looking stools for a few days. What's wrong? (9.3) What are these little orange-speckled crusty spots on my ferret's skin? (9.4) What's the best first aid for heat exposure? (9.5) How can I get rid of these fleas? (9.6) How do I tell if my ferret has ear mites? What do I do about them? (9.7) Do I need to worry about heartworms? - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 8. *** Basic health care *** ------------------------------ Subject: (8.1) Do I need to spay/neuter my pet? How about descenting? Declawing? Ferrets intended as pets must be neutered or spayed. Neutering drastically reduces the odor of a male, prevents him from marking his territory with smelly slime, and makes him less aggressive (males in season may kill other ferrets, even females). Spaying saves a female's life, since once she goes into heat she will need to be bred or she will almost certainly die of anemia. However, many people disagree with the common practice of performing the surgery at a very early age, and prefer to wait until the ferret is at least six months old. It should be done before the first time the ferret would go into heat, but apart from that there's no rush. There's debate about whether descenting ferrets is necessary or useful, and some belief that it's harmful. It's bad for a ferret's health to descent it before 6 or 7 weeks of age, and it may be somewhat harmful when done at any age. Many people feel that the procedure accomplishes no purpose; that is, that neutered ferrets who aren't spraying smell the same whether or not they've been descented. Note that, like a skunk, a ferret will use its scent if it's greatly distressed or feeling amorous, but ferrets can't spray their scent as effectively as a skunk, and it dissipates much more quickly. How often a ferret sprays and how bad it smells depend on the individual ferret, and different people have different tolerances for the scent, so if given the option you may want to wait and see if you think descenting is necessary in your particular case. Most pet stores sell neutered and descented kits. Many breeders sell kits which have been neutered but not descented. Ferrets have nails like dogs, not cats. They shouldn't be declawed. ------------------------------ Subject: (8.2) What vaccinations will my ferret need, and when? According to Nancy Hartman: IMRAB rabies vaccine - yearly, starting at about 6 months old. (This is the same rabies vaccine as is used for dogs and cats; your vet should have it on hand.) Fervac-D or Fromm-D canine distemper vaccine - see below. (Fervac-D is ferret specific, so many vets may not carry it. Fromm-D is commonly used for dogs.) Kits should be vaccinated at 8 weeks, 11 weeks, and 14 weeks. But they should have at *least* a series of two shots, three weeks apart, with the last one when the ferret is older than 14 weeks. Then 1 booster shot yearly. Note: although rabies is the more publicized of the two, the distemper shot is MUCH more important for your ferret's health. [If you can't get the ferret-specific distemper vaccine, use a vaccine for canine distemper which is a KILLED VIRUS and was NOT cultured in ferret tissue. Also, watch out for Galaxy-D. Fromm-D was recently discontinued, and some distributors are substituting Galaxy-D without telling anyone. Galaxy-D shouldn't harm your pet, but it hasn't yet been tested for ferrets at all. Some shows won't accept Galaxy-D.] Adult ferrets who have never been vaccinated, the shots are out of date, or the ferret is of unknown vaccination status, should receive a series of two [distemper] vaccinations, three weeks apart, then a booster shot yearly. Also be advised that most states do not recognize the rabies vaccine for ferrets. The "official" studies on shedding time have yet to be done. So, even if vaccinated, your ferret will be destroyed if someone reports to the authorities that they were bitten (scratched, looked at cross-eyed) by him/her. BUT, the vaccination will most likely keep the person from reporting the ferret in the first place. And, it will protect your ferrets from getting rabies on the chance that they are bitten by a rabid animal. Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, adds: An extra distemper shot, in cases where a vaccination history is not known, will not hurt a ferret. Vaccinations is one area in which it is better to be safe than sorry. Like any other animals, ferrets sometimes have adverse reactions to vaccinations. One manufacturer (I think it's Rhone-Merieux) recommends that distemper and rabies vaccines be spaced a couple of weeks apart, since they found that giving them at the same time seemed to increase the chances of a reaction. ------------------------------ Subject: (8.3) Can I vaccinate my own ferrets? It's not recommended. Giving an intramuscular injection to a squirming or nippy animal is not easy. Even experienced veterinarians with good technicians sometimes get bitten. Also, an injection in the wrong place can injure the sciatic nerve and permanently paralyze the ferret's leg; and in case of a bad reaction to the vaccine, a vet has the experience and equipment on hand which may be needed to save the ferret's life. In addition, a licensed veterinarian's signature is required for the rabies certificate to be legal. The annual trip to the vet (or semi- annual, for older ferrets) [8.4] is also the best time to have your ferrets checked for other health problems. Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, adds: Unfortunately, vaccination are what supports the vets - sick animals don't. The extra few dollars is what pays the help, and the electricity, what feeds the strays that are dropped off weekly to your vets, or the dogs that nobody bothers to pick up. Or the ones that are hit by cars and dropped off by Good Samaritans. However, if you have a lot of ferrets to be vaccinated, you may be able to save yourself some money by purchasing the vaccines themselves directly from the manufacturer and taking them to your vet to be used. You save on the materials, but you still get your vet's expertise. Check with your vet to see if he or she will work with you like this. ------------------------------ Subject: (8.4) What kind of checkups should my ferret be having? Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, says: I know that some practicing vets consider a 3-year animal to be "geriatric" and to require a CBC [complete blood cell count] and a fasting blood glucose yearly, but as one who stands to make no money on this deal anyway, I don't recommend it until age 5. Three years is just to young to consider a ferret geriatric. Now, remember, all ferrets are different. If you have one that is sort of "puny", never eats well, sluggish, etc. a yearly CBC and glucose is a good idea every year. But if your three or 4 year olds are healthy, well, then it's just not required. I start mine at 5 years. Considering dental work - have your vet check the teeth and then recommend who needs it. Not every ferret will need to have it done, and if your 4 year olds have been on hard food all of their lives, chances are good that they may not need any work yet. Remember - a healthy 3- or 4-year old doesn't necessarily require any annual bloodwork, but a sickly 2 year old should get it on at least an annual basis. ------------------------------ Subject: (8.5) Are ferrets really as prone to disease as it seems? A lot of the discussion about ferrets on rec.pets and the Ferret Mailing List (FML) deals with health problems, and it's easy to get the impression that ferrets are constantly ill. In fact, they're pretty hardy animals. As Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, puts it: Ferrets are no more prone to disease than other animals. However, they do have a much shorter lifespan, so these problems come up an a more frequent basis. Plus, most of us own anywhere between two and fifteen animals, and many own more than this, or run shelters. When you are dealing with such large numbers of animals, you will have proportionately more health problems. Also, the FML also has several vets that give health advice. We are well known as a place where you can get a prompt response to a question about the health of your animal, and several of us also are involved with the health care of many of the animals which you read about. Another thing to consider is that many of the FMLers live in areas where vets are not very familiar with ferrets and their diseases, so the FML is a good place to get a second opinion or advice for their vets. I field anywhere from 3-8 phone calls daily [8.6] on ferret matters from veterinarians around the country. Any type of animal that you may obtain as a pet will have predisposition to disease. Ferrets should be expected to get diseases of their own, too. But as most people on the FML will tell you, the benefits are far more than the risks. ------------------------------ Subject: (8.6) How do I contact Dr. Williams? I hear he'll look at ferret tissue for free, and help with diagnoses, too. Dr. Williams says: I encourage owners who have questions to USE [my phone number]. Have your vets USE IT. If I minded people sending me email [at <WILLIAMB@email.afip.osd.mil>] or calling me on the phone (remember, it's Mon-Fri.), I wouldn't post it. Because of my workload, I concentrate now only on medical questions. But if you have a question, and your vet can't seem to answer, feel free to give me a call. I look at ferret tissue on a daily basis, much more than any other veterinary pathologist I know of in the country. I'll be happy to process and look at the tissue for no - no charge - if your vet would like to send it to me. He can send it to: Dr. Bruce Williams Department of Veterinary Pathology Armed Forces Institute of Pathology Washington, D.C. 20306-6000 (202) 782-2600/2602 fax (202) 782-9150 Tissues should be placed in formalin (a dilute form of formaldehyde that your vets all carry), and bodies should be placed in the refrigerator, not the freezer, until a necropsy can be done. Freezing tissues will make them virtually useless as far as further study. As I have said before, ferret histopathology is free. I can generally turn cases around in 48-72 [hours] following receipt of the tissue (48 hours is the general rule). This offer is extended to any other list member who needs tissue (either autopsy or biopsy) examined. Because the AFIP is keenly interested in the diseases of ferrets (from a diagnostic standpoint only - NO ferret research is done here), we are accepting ferret tissue from private practitioners and individuals. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 9. *** Problems to watch for and related information *** ------------------------------ Subject: (9.1) What warning signs of disease should I look for? An outline of noninfectious, parasitic, infectious, and cancerous health problems in the pet ferret is also available [10.1], as are brief explanations of some of the more common ones [10.2]. NOTE: I am not a veterinarian. I haven't even owned ferrets very long. (Dr. Bruce Williams, on the other hand, -is- a vet and ferret expert.) The following is by no means a comprehensive list of symptoms of disease in ferrets. However, some of the more common problems are often accompanied by these symptoms. If you notice one of these, or any other unusual behavior, see your vet. ALSO: Ferrets are small. While they generally enjoy good health, any kind of disease or disorder can be fatal in a surprisingly short time, so if you suspect a problem, see your vet immediately. Lethargy, lack of playfulness, loss of appetite, dull/glassy eyes, etc. Symptomatic of a number of problems. Lack of bowel movement If your ferret has gone longer than usual without using the litter pan (or some other corner) productively, he may have an intestinal blockage. Certainly by the time it's been 24 hours you should go to the vet immediately. Note that a ferret can continue to defecate for as much as a day even with a blockage, since there's still waste in the intestines to be eliminated. Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, adds: More often than not, [the cause of a lack of bowel movement] is a lack of food intake for some other reason. Ferrets generally go to the litter three or four times a day. Owners should look for adequate stools, although some may be a little loose. Also look for string-like stools. Ferrets with intestinal blockages can continue to pass stool which is very thin- like a pencil lead. But adequate ferret-proofing [6.1] is much more important than stool-watching. Swollen abdomen Bloating may come from many problems such as heart disease, splenic enlargement, or even just fat animals. Painful abdomen Could be any of several disorders, but the most common is an intestinal blockage, caused by eating something indigestible such as a sponge or an eraser. Not all blockages cause abdominal pain, though. Change in "bathroom" habits Suddenly refusing to use a litter pan or missing a lot more than usual, signs of discomfort or distress while using a pan, or any funny color or texture in the feces [9.2] or urine could be a sign of any of a number of problems. Stress, perhaps from a change in environment, can also cause this. Lumps in the body or feet These are most often associated with tumors, which may be benign or cancerous. They can also be a sign of an infection, the result of dietary problems, or a vaccine reaction. Have any swelling or lump checked out. Difficulty using the hind feet, awkward gait, lack of movement Most often a sign of an adrenal or islet cell tumor (insulinoma), or arthritis, in older ferrets. Could also be an injured back, the result of having been stepped or sat upon, closed in a door, or the like. Ferrets have very flexible spines, but they're easily injured. Says Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, about hind-end awkwardness: This is a common finding in older animals of many species - the most common cause is a mild degeneration of the nerves in the spinal cord or those innervating the legs. In most of these cases, there is nothing to be done, but it also rarely results in paralysis, just variable amounts of weakness. Overheating Ferrets do not tolerate high temperatures well at all. They (like any pet) should NEVER be left in a hot car, and if you're keeping them outdoors be sure to provide some shade and plenty of water in summer. Allowing them to sleep under hot radiators is probably also a bit risky. Temperatures as low as the 80's can be life-threatening to ferrets without shade and cool water [9.4]. Loose skin and dull eyes Generally caused by dehydration, which is quite serious in such a small animal. Unexplained hair loss Not the usual seasonal shedding, which should happen twice a year (but the times may vary due to indoor lighting conditions), but a severe loss, especially if more than the tail is affected [7.3]. Seizures It's pretty obvious that these indicate some kind of problem. Most often the result of islet cell tumors in the pancreas causing extremely low blood sugar, but there are many other causes too. Diarrhea or vomiting Both of these are serious, since ferrets are easily dehydrated. Diarrhea may be caused by milk products, which contain lactose that ferrets do not tolerate, or by a number of diseases. Ferrets do sometimes vomit from excitement, stress, a change of diet, or overeating, but if it's repetitive or if there are any signs of blood, get to a vet. During shedding season ferrets may "spit up" a bit due to hair in the throat. This can be helped with Petromalt [6.3]. Sneezing, runny nose, watery eyes, lethargy Yes, ferrets catch human colds and flu. They'll generally rest and drink a lot. A visit to the vet would probably be a good idea, particularly if the cold looks bad or lasts more than a few days. Tooth grinding Almost exclusively abdominal pain. The primary cause is stress- associated gastric ulcers. Swollen vulva In an unspayed female, she's probably going into heat, especially if it's springtime. For young spayed ferrets, under 18 months or so, the most common problem is pieces of the ovary that were missed in the spaying and have begun to produce hormones. These pieces might be scattered around the abdomen. For older ferrets, however, by far the most common cause of a swollen vulva is adrenal disease, usually cancer. ------------------------------ Subject: (9.2) My ferret's had funny-looking stools for a few days. What's wrong? Maybe nothing. If there are no stools at all, though, he may have an intestinal blockage. According to Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM: Ferrets occasionally have dietary "indiscretions" and may get hold of something that is not particularly to the GI tract's liking. They may get loose or discolored stools, and if no groceries are going in for a day or so, their stools will lose volume and may become somewhat thin. As long as they are playing and acting okay, they can usually tolerate this for 48-72 hours. If it goes on any longer than this, or their play/sleep cycles become affected, then it's off to the vet for a check. Most problems resolve within 72 hours on their own. If it doesn't, then there may be a problem. (However watch for dark tarry stools - they are more than just discolored and indicate GI bleeding. If you ever see these - go see your vet. Likewise for profuse green diarrhea.) A one- to two-week course of Laxatone is also a good idea following changes in stools. If there is some foreign matter in the intestine, it will help it move along, and, at any rate, it won't hurt. I caution everyone - don't throw out those abnormal stools without going through them (pick them apart in a bowl of water) and seeing if there is any foreign material in them. It may sound "gross", but it can tell you if your ferret is eating something it shouldn't. One thing you can try for mild cases, especially after consulting your veterinarian, is Pepto Bismol. Dr. Williams comments: You may want to note that Pepto can be given as 1/15th of a tablet crushed up in food. Ferrets generally tolerate that better than the liquid form, which they hate. ------------------------------ Subject: (9.3) What are these little orange-speckled crusty spots on my ferret's skin? Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, says: An orange, flaky discoloration of the skin is a very non-specific finding in the ferret. The crustiness of the skin means that the skin is not coming off in small microscopic flakes (1 to several cells at a time) like normally happens. When you see a crust - it means that the normal way that a ferret sheds devitalized epidermis has been impaired. As far as the cause - there is not just one cause. Many things can cause this change - skin parasites, fleas, ear mites, bacterial infections of hair follicles, fungus, endocrine disease, even distemper. Minor skin disorders such as these are more common with age. They may be exacerbated by poor husbandry, or excessive bathing (more than once per week to ten days.) Most cases are due to a very superficial bacterial infection which will respond well to a weekly application of a gentle bactericidal shampoo. Other tests that can be done at the time of diagnosis by your vet would include a skin scraping and fungal culture. Should all tests turn up negative, and a four-week course of topical therapy not help, then the next step would be biopsy and submission to a pathology lab for microscopic examination. Allergies are another possibility; and the area around bites, whether caused by fleas or another animal, may take on a pink or orangish color from dried blood. ------------------------------ Subject: (9.4) What's the best first aid for heat exposure? Ferrets don't tolerate heat well at all. Even temperatures in the 80s (say, above 27C or so) can cause problems. The first thing to do, of course, is to PREVENT heat exposure in the first place, by providing shade and plenty of cool water, and never leaving a ferret closed up in a car in the summer. If you live in a hot climate, you must realize that your ferret will need special care in mid-summer. Ferrets in distress from heat will first pant, then go limp, then lose touch with their surroundings. The first thing to do is to get the ferret out of the hot place and start cooling him down slowly. Cool water is best, but not too cold, since the ferret's body temperature will drop way too far, with him unable to stop it. Anything you can get him to drink is good, but never force liquids into an unconscious animal. After these emergency measures, get your pet to the vet immediately. Even ferrets that seem to have recovered may die within 48 hours due to the massive shock they've undergone. ------------------------------ Subject: (9.5) How can I get rid of these fleas? Even if your ferrets are never outdoors, you can bring in fleas or their eggs on your shoes or clothing. There's a whole FAQ dedicated to ridding your pet and your home of fleas and ticks. It's distributed in the usenet newsgroup rec.pets. You can also get it by FTP: <URL:ftp://rtfm.mit.edu/pub/usenet/news.answers/pets/fleas-ticks> (that is, ftp to rtfm.mit.edu and get the indicated file) or by sending email to <mail-server@rtfm.mit.edu> with the line SEND usenet/news.answers/pets/fleas-ticks in the body of the message (with an empty subject line). In general, most products which are safe for use on kittens are safe for ferrets. Products containing pyrethins are okay, but don't use anything containing organophosphates, carbamates, or petroleum distillates. Be especially careful with dips and sprays; shampoos are much safer. Follow the directions on the bottle carefully. Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, adds: You can use a premise spray around the cage, but often, the house requires bombing, too. Get a bomb from your vet which contains methoprene (a flea growth regulator). This will allow you to complete the job in just two applications - one to kill the adults and larva, the second two weeks later to get the ones that have hatched out since the first spray. (Make sure of course to remove your ferrets from the house at the time of the bombing...) Fleas can be a real nuisance - before you bomb, make sure to wash all of their bedding and vacuum carefully so you only have to do it twice.... Most insect foggers don't have a strong enough residual effect to hurt your ferrets. We routinely bomb our house for fleas and two hours later, the ferrets and dogs are romping through the house. (But I know that Siphotrol has a weak residual.) Signs of trouble - lack of appetitie, rumbling stomachs, diarrhea, vomiting, salivation, dilated pupils, stumbling. You probably won't see them, but it's nice to know what to look for... ------------------------------ Subject: (9.6) How do I tell if my ferret has ear mites? What do I do about them? Check when you clean your ferret's ears, perhaps once or twice a month [6.7]. Reddish-brown ear wax is normal, but if you see any thick, black discharge then you probably have mites. It's also a good idea to have your vet check the ears whenever you visit. You can't catch ear mites from your pet, but your cats, dogs, and other ferrets certainly can. Dr. Williams, DVM says: Ferrets very commonly get ear mites, so you don't need to get upset. Check with your vet and get two products: a ceruminolytic (such as "Oti-Clens"), which will dissolve the wax that the mites live in. This is far preferable to trying to dig the wax out with Q-tips. Then get a good ear miticide from your vet (I use Tresaderm). Put a little of the ear cleaner (which dissolves the wax) in the ear and massage. Let it sit for about a minute. Your ferret will probably shakes its head, sending wax all over you and the floor. Use a Q-tip and gently collect the rest of the wax from the ear canal. You won't hit the ear drum, as the ferrets ear canal is roughly L-shaped - you will just be cleaning the vertical part of the canal. After you have cleaned the wax, put the ear drops [miticide] in. Make sure that the fluids that you are using are body temperature - put them in your shirt or picket for a few minutes before using. No one likes cold water in their ears!!!! Clean every day for a week to 10 days, stop for a week, and go again for another week to take care of mites. If your problem is just dirty ears (some ferrets have a lot of wax) - just use the ear wax remover once a week. Ivermectin can be used in bad cases, either orally, injected, or directly in the ear. Today I ran across an article (Bell, JA. Parasites of Domesticated Pet Ferrets, Comp. Clin. Educ. Pract. Vet. 16(5): 617-620), which gives a dosage for topical administration of ivermectin: Injectable ivermectin is mixed with propylene glycol at a ration of approximately 1:20 - then 0.2 to 0.3 ml (4-6 drops) into each ear canal daily. Ferrets on ivermectin for heartworm prevention should not have problems with ear mites. Dr. Susan Brown, DVM says: Do not depend on the oil [used for cleaning] to completely rid your pet of mites either although it will help to suffocate them. Mites are easily taken care of by using Ivermectin directly in the ears at 0.5mg/kg divided into two doses to be used in each ear and then repeated in two weeks. You need to have a positive diagnosis of mites made by your vet and get the medication from him or her. ------------------------------ Subject: (9.7) Do I need to worry about heartworms? Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, reports: I took a few minutes to call a veterinarian, Dr. Debra Kemmerer in Gainesville FL, who has been working with heartworm disease in ferrets, and I thought that I would pass on what she has told me. She recommends all ferrets in heartworm endemic areas (ask your vet if your local is heartworm-endemic - generally southern areas have higher rates of heartworms due to increased numbers of mosquitoes). She is currently using ivermectin in the ferret at the dose of 10 micrograms/lb. She mixes her own liquid formula at 100 mcg/ml, and gives each ferret 1/1`oth of a ml per pound of body weight. The reason she mixes her own is that in the tablet form that most heartworm prevention is available for in dogs, the drug is not spread evenly throughout the tablet, so that if you are breaking the tablet and giving your ferrets a piece of the tablet, you may be giving them too little, or worse, too much. For your vets, prior to using prevention, the ferrets (like dogs) can be tested with antigen kits (not a direct smear, as many infections are "occult" in ferrets, and do not shed the baby worms in the blood, as they do in the dog.) Dr. Kemmerer says that the best (and only) effective test out their is Rhone-Merieux's "Vet-Red Heartworm Detection Kit". All others are either not effective in diagnosing the disease, or need extensive modification. She has been formulating her own preventative in liquid, easy-dosing form for 7 years now, and has NOT seen any side effects. She does caution, however, that it must be dispensed in an amber bottle, so it doesn't degrade in sunlight. She also advocates that prevention is the way to go here - she expects to lose 50% of the animals treated for heartworm disease. I hope that everyone will apprise their vets of these comments. For more information about heartworm disease in ferrets, or how to prescribe ivermectin in the ferret, you may contact Dr. Debra Kemmerer at West End Animal Veterinary Hospital, Gainesville, FL at 904-332-4357. == End of Part IV == -- - Pam Greene <pgreene@optics.rochester.edu> Ferret Central - <http://www.ceas.rochester.edu:8080/ee/users/rhode/index.html> Ferret FAQ - GET ANSWERS PACKAGE FERRET in mail to <listserv@cunyvm.cuny.edu> Archive-name: ferret-faq/part5 Last-modified: 7 Feb 95 Version: 2.4 FERRET FAQ (part 5 of 5) -- MEDICAL OVERVIEW Compiled and edited by Pamela Greene <pgreene@optics.rochester.edu> Additions, corrections, and suggestions for this file are welcomed! This document is copyright 1994, 1995 by Pamela L. Greene. See section 0.5 (in Part I, About the Ferret FAQ) for authorship information and redistribution rights. In short, you can give it away, but you can't charge for it. The basic Ferret FAQ has five parts, all of which should be available wherever you obtained this one. Most people will want to look at parts 1 through 4, and perhaps skim part 5. A complete table of contents for all five files is given in Part I. Please at least read section 0 in Part I, About this FAQ. In addition, there are separate FAQ's for several common ferret diseases. Information about those is given in section [1.1]. Please note: I am not a ferret expert, and I did not write, nor did I independently verify, all the information in this file. I have done my best to include only accurate and useful information, but I cannot guarantee that what is contained in this file, whether written by me or by one of the contributors, is correct, or even that following the advice herein won't be harmful to you or your ferret in some way. For advice from an expert, you may wish to consult one of several books available, or, especially in the case of a suspected medical problem, a veterinarian who is familiar with the treatment of ferrets. ------------------------------ Subject: CONTENTS OF THIS FILE Part V: MEDICAL OVERVIEW 10. *** Common health problems *** (10.1) Overview of common health problems (10.1.1) Noninfectious health problems (10.1.2) Parasites (10.1.3) Infectious diseases (10.1.4) Neoplasia (Cancer) (10.2) Other common problems and more information 11. *** Feeding a sick ferret *** (11.1) What's Ferret Soup? Does anyone have a recipe? (11.2) What's Duck Soup? Anyone have a recipe? 12. *** Medical reference material *** (12.1) What books can I get or recommend to my vet? (12.2) Are there any other useful references? - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 10. *** Common health problems *** ------------------------------ Subject: (10.1) Overview of common health problems All of section 10.1 was written by Susan A. Brown, DVM. Most common health problems of the pet ferret ------------------------------ Subject: (10.1.1) Noninfectious health problems by Dr. Susan Brown, DVM A. GI Foreign Bodies [i.e., swallowing things they shouldn't have] This is the MOST COMMON cause of wasting and acute abdominal disease in the ferret under 1 year of age. It occurs with less frequency in older ferrets. Ferrets love to chew and eat rubber and "sweaty" objects. The most common foreign bodies we remove are latex rubber pet toys, foam rubber, insoles and soles of shoes, pipe insulation, chair foot protectors, along with towels, cotton balls, plastic, metal, and wood. Hair balls are VERY COMMON particularly in the ferret 2 years of age and older. Most foreign bodies remain in the stomach if they are too large to pass and cause a slow wasting disease that may last for months. (This is the way that most hairballs present.) However, if the foreign material passes out of the stomach and lodges in the small intestine, then the pet becomes acutely ill, severely depressed, dehydrated, in extreme abdominal pain and finally coma and death within 24 to 48 hours if surgery is not performed. Other signs that your pet may have a foreign body are pawing at the mouth frequently, vomiting (although remember that many pets with foreign bodies do not vomit), appetite that goes on and off, black tarry stools that come and go. Prevention is by use of a cat hairball laxative either every day or every other day (about 1") and ferret proofing your house on hands and knees for potential foreign body items. Treatment is generally surgery, because if it is too large to leave the stomach, it has to come out somehow! B. Aplastic Anemia A common cause of death of unspayed breeding females. The cause is a condition caused by high levels of the hormone estrogen that is produced during the heat period which in turn suppresses the production of vital red and white blood cells in the bone marrow. This suppression is irreversible as the disease advances and death occurs from severe anemia, bleeding (because the blood can't clot properly), and secondary bacterial infections because there aren't enough white blood cells to fight. Signs are seen in animals in heat 1 month or longer (they can stay in heat up to 180 days if unbred), and include general depression and hind limb weakness that seems to occur suddenly and sudden loss of appetite. Additionally there may be marked hair loss and baldness on the body. Upon closer exam the gums appear light pink or white, and there may be small hemorrhages under the skin. A complete blood count should be done to determine the severity of the damage to the bone marrow. If the condition is advanced, there is no treatment as it is irreversible, and euthanasia is recommended. If the disease is caught early, treatment may include a spay, multiple transfusions and other supportive care. Prevention is by having animals not designated for breeding spayed by 6 months of age. Those to be used for breeding should use the hormone HCG for taking them out of heat during cycles when they will not be bred. The use of vasectomized males can sometimes be ureliable, and we do not recommend it. C. Anal Gland Impaction Caused when the animal has a blockage to the outflow of anal gland secretion or abnormally thick anal gland material. Signs are few, doesn't seem to cause them much pain. If the gland ruptures, a draining hole will be seen near the anus, and the pet may lick at the area frequently. Treatment is by surgical removal of the anal glands. Even if only one is affected now, remove both as the other may become affected later. There is no prevention, and this disease does not occur with sufficient frequency to warrant routine anal gland removal in all ferrets. D. Cataracts Caused when the lens of the eye becomes opaque. Light can no longer reach the retina and the animal becomes blind. In ferrets it is primarily seen in animals under one year of age and is considered to be hereditary. In other cases it may be caused by aging of the eye in very old animals or as a result of injury to the eye. Signs are almost nonexistent. Ferrets have very poor eyesight and do not depend on it for much. Many people are surprised to find that their ferrets are blind. They eyes will have a whitish blue cast to the area of the pupil. Treatment is unnecessary. Prevention of hereditary cataracts is by not repeating the breeding. E. Cardiomyopathy [There is a separate FAQ devoted to cardiomyopathy; see section 1.1] Seen generally in animals over 3 years of age, rare in young. Caused by an abnormal thinning or thickening of the heart muscle which interferes with blood flow through the heart. Signs include a marked decrease in activity, the need to rest in the middle of the play periods, great difficulty in awakening from sleep, and as the disease progresses one may see coughing, difficulty breathing, fluid build-up in the abdomen and a general loss of condition. Diagnosis is by x-ray and EKG. Treatment is dependent on which type of heart muscle abnormality is present. There is no cure for this disease, treatment helps to alleviate symptoms and reduce he work load on the heart and attempt to prolong life. F. Urolithiasis (Bladder Stones) The cause is not completely understood. A high ash content of the diet and possible underlying bacterial or viral infections, and even some genetic predisposition may all play a part. This condition is rarely seen in animals on a low ash cat food. Signs include blood in the urine, difficulty in urinating (may be accompanied by crying when urinating), "sandy" material being passed in the urine, and in the most severe cases there may be a complete blockage leading to no urine being passed and eventual depression, coma and death. Treatment depends on the size of the stones. Surgery may be indicated or a change to a special diet may solve the problem. Prevention is by feeding a low ash diet. ------------------------------ Subject: (10.1.2) Parasitic health problems by Dr. Susan Brown, DVM A. Ear Mites Caused by a small mite that lives in the ear and sucks blood and is picked up from other animals with mites (including dogs and cats). Signs are very minimal to none. Ferrets seem to tolerate mites very well. Occasionally there may be an excessive amount of ear wax produced, extensive scratching of the ears, and small black pigmented areas that appear on the ear. Treatment is with Ivermectin at 1 mg/kg divided into two doses with each dose dropped into each ear. This is repeated in two weeks. All the animals in the house should be treated. Wash bedding the same day as treatment and a bath for the pet wouldn't hurt, either. They also may be treated with Tresaderm daily for 14 days. B. Fleas Caused by an insect that spends a small portion of its life on the animal and lives in the surrounding environment laying eggs the rest of the time. Prevented by spraying or powdering your animals 2 times a week with a pyrethrin product if they go outside. If you already have them, the house must be treated also. ------------------------------ Subject: (10.1.3) Infectious diseases by Dr. Susan Brown, DVM A. Influenza virus Caused by the same complex of viruses that cause disease in humans. They can catch it from humans or other ferrets. Signs include a runny nose (clear discharge), runny eyes, sneezing, coughing, decrease but not total loss in appetite, lethargy and occasionally diarrhea. In newborns it may be fatal. Treatments is generally nothing specific except rest and loving care. They generally get over it in 3 to 7 days (recall how long your flu lasted, and they will generally be the same), The antihistamine product Chlor Trimeton may be used at 1/4 tablet 2 times daily for sneezing that may interfere with sleeping or eating. If the appetite is totally lost or if any green or yellow discharges appear or if there is extreme lethargy, these animals should be seen by a veterinarian. Prevention is washing hands and no kissing when you are dealing with a cold. Also remember, they can give the flu right back to you! B. Canine Distemper A 100% fatal disease that is still very much out there! It is caused by a virus that attacks many organs in the body. The virus can stay alive for a long time on shoes and clothes that have come in contact with infected material. (Such as from walks in parks or other areas where animals roam). Signs range from acute death to a slow progressive disease which usually starts as an eye infection and progresses to a rash on the chin and lips and abdomen, and thickened hard pads on the feet. Diarrhea, vomiting, severe lethargy are other possible signs. The disease may be very drawn out with seizures and coma at the end. There is no treatment for distemper. Euthanasia is the kindest solution as it is a long and painful way to go. Prevention is by vaccination with the Fromm-D [or Fervac-D] distemper vaccine. [Be careful about Galaxy-D, which has sometimes been "invisbly" substituted for Fromm-D. It's still untested in ferrets.] Use of other vaccines have occasionally caused cases of distemper in ferrets. The schedule would be the first shot at 6 weeks of age then 8 weeks, 11 weeks, 14 weeks and annually thereafter. The vaccine WILL NOT last for 3 years in the face of an outbreak. Ferrets do not need vaccines containing leptospirosis, hepatitis, parainfluenza or any other dog virus. C. Aleutian disease Caused by a parvovirus that invades many organs of the body and sets up a type of autoimmune response. The actual disease is rare in the ferret. It is seen in isolated outbreaks mostly in breeding facilities where many young animals are present. The signs are very variable and range from slow wasting to sudden death with black tarry stools. A blood test can detect antibodies to the virus, but a positive test in a clinically normal animal does not indicate euthanasia. We are generally only recommending the test for those that are breeding ferrets. This is not a recommended routine test for ferrets already in a pet household. We also use the test to help diagnose disease in a clinically ill animal. ------------------------------ Subject: (10.1.4) Neoplasia (Cancer) by Dr. Susan Brown, DVM [Each of these four cancers has its own FAQ; see section 1.1] A. Lymphosarcoma This is a disease of the lymphatic system of the body which is an important part of the immune system. The cause is unknown but investigation is being done to determine if there is a virus involved. It can occur in ferrets of any age. Signs are very variable, and many animals show no outward signs until they are very ill, or changes are picked up on a routine veterinary exam. Changes may include enlarged lymph nodes anywhere in or on the body, a greatly enlarged spleen, wasting, difficulty breathing, and extreme lethargy. A complete blood cell count may indicate abnormal (cancerous) cells present, although this occurs in a very small percentage of cases. Diagnosis is generally by biopsy of a lymph node, spleen or fluid from the chest. Treatment is by chemotherapy of the animal fulfills certain criteria that would make it a good candidate, Chemotherapy has been successful in about 75% of our cases, allowing life to be prolonged in a quality way for 6 months to 2 years. B. Insulinoma This is a tumor of the pancreas leading to a high insulin production and a low blood sugar. C. Adrenal Adenoma or Adenocarcinoma This is a tumor of the adrenal gland. D. Skin tumors There are a variety of skin tumors occurring in the pet ferret. The most common are sebaceous gland adenomas, and mast cell tumors. Most of these should be removed particularly if they are ulcerated, bleeding, or have a rough surface. Chondromas occur with some frequency on the tip of the tail as a hard round lump. They are generally benign, but may become large and bothersome and can easily be removed. ------------------------------ Subject: (10.2) Other common problems and more information Once again, I'm not a vet or even a ferret expert, but here's a list of several of the most common medical problems in ferrets, especially older ones. Intestinal blockages Caused by eating something indigestible, such as an eraser, a rubber band, some fabrics, or even a good-sized hairball (accumulated from grooming), which gets stuck. Symptoms may include (one or more of) lack of bowel movement, constipation, bloating, vomiting or heaving, drooling, and others. Blockages may occur at any point in the digestive tract, from the throat through the lower intestine, even in the stomach where the object may move around and produce only intermittent symptoms. Laxatone or a similar hairball remedy/laxative can help prevent this [6.3]. Treatment is surgery, to remove the blockage. Tumors or lesions of the adrenal glands Symptoms vary, including hair loss spreading from the base of the tail forward [7.3], lethargy, loss of appetite, and loss of coordination in the hindquarters. In females, often the most prominent sign is an enlarged vulva as in heat. Often, however, a tumor will be present without showing any signs at all, so if your ferret is going in for any surgery, the vet should take a look at the adrenal glands as well (if time permits -- ferrets lose body heat very quickly in surgery). The left gland seems to be affected more often than the right. Islet cell tumors (insulinoma) These are tumors of insulin-secreting cells in the pancreas. Their main effect is a drop in the blood sugar level, and they are also common enough in older ferrets, even without symptoms, that if your pet is having surgery for something else, a quick check is worthwhile. Symptoms include lethargy, loss of appetite, wobbly gait, and pawing at the mouth; in more severe cases attention lapses (staring into space) or seizures may also occur. If you're more than a minute from your vet and your ferret has a low enough blood sugar level to be having seizures, call the vet and ask if you should rub Karo (corn sugar) syrup or honey on your pet's gums to raise it just enough to bring him out of the seizure. Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, adds: Splenomegaly [enlarged spleen, usually a swelling in the upper abdomen] In situations where a neoplasm is not present [this is a common symptom of lymphosarcoma], the pros and cons of splenectomy should be discussed with your veterinarian. If an animal simply has a large spleen, but shows no signs of illness or discomfort, it is safer for the animal to leave it in. However, if the animal shows signs of discomfort, such as lethargy and a poor appetite, or a decrease in activity, then the spleen may come out. Finally, if the spleen is especially large, and the animal is very active, there is a risk of splenic rupture, and once again, splenectomy should be considered. Lymphosarcoma [also called lymphoma] Lymphosarcoma is the most common type of cancer in the ferret. It is a tumor of a certain type of white blood cell, and the most common clinical sign is enlargement of the lymph nodes. It may also arise in the abdomen, where lymph nodes can only be felt with reasonable accuracy by your veterinarian. It is most commonly seen in older animals from 4-6 years of age, although animals as young as a year old can have it. While animals initially respond well to chemotherapy, they usually relapse in 2 months or less, and generally are put to sleep at this time. The prognosis for any ferret with lymphosarcoma is poor. A lymph node biopsy, read by a pathologist who is familiar with ferret tissue, is the ONLY way to diagnose lymphosarcoma. Gastric ulcers Ferrets may develop gastric ulcers in time of stress. Clinical signs are dark, tarry stools, a lack of appetite, and grinding of the teeth. It can be treated by your vet, but it takes 3-4 weeks to recover from this condition. You must first remove the stress from the animals environment before any recovery can begin. These animals also need good nursing care to get them back on their food. With proper care - recovery rates are over 90%. Cutaneous vaccine reactions Subcutaneous vaccination with rabies or other vaccines may, over a period of weeks, cause a hard lump [9.1] at the site of vaccination. The lump simply consists of a large area of inflammation and most commonly are seen around the neck. The lumps can be removed, and generally do not cause a major problem for your pet. Similar lesions may be seen in vaccinated dogs and cats. Helicobacter mustelae infection Infection of the stomach lining by a bacteria, Helicobacter mustelae is extremely common in ferrets. Animals with long-standing infections (generally older animals), may develop gastric problems due to the bacteria's ability to decrease acid production in the stomach. Signs of a problem include repetitive vomiting, lack of appetite, and signs of gastric ulcers (see above). Helicobacter infection and gastric ulcers often go hand in hand - the relationship between infection and gastric ulcer formation has not been totally worked out, although there is currently a lot of research in this area. Helicobacter infection can be cured with administration of antibiotic and a gastric coating agent over a period of weeks. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 11. *** Feeding a sick ferret *** ------------------------------ Subject: (11.1) What's Ferret Soup? Does anyone have a recipe? Ferret Soup is a mixture of foods that most ferrets like [6.2, 6.4]. It's probably best to serve it in addition to a bowl of dry food, or use it to accustom new ferrets to ferret chow. It's especially good for old, pregnant, stressed, or sick ferrets. The following information was posted by Kate Pappas, on request from Ed Lipinski (who lacks a modem). According to her, all queries and comments will be happily received if you contact him: Ferrets NorthWest 4321 86th Ave. S.E., Carol Lane Mercer Island, WA 98040-4124 tel. (206) 232-1228 L.U.M.P.S (Lipinski's Ultimate Mustelid Porridge Soup) 1 cup ferret chow (or mix cat/ferret chow) 1 tblsp brewers (not bakers) powdered yeast 1 heaping tblsp peanut butter 2 cloves garlic, 1 cup cooked oatmeal 1 soft/hardboiled egg (including shell) 1/2 fresh onion (tissue-paper skin removed) 1/2 tomato, 1 carrot, 1 skinned banana, 1 sweet potato 1/3 cup broccoli or cabbage or lettuce or celery 1 cup hamburger (raw) or bandsaw meat product 2 tblsp low fat cottage cheese 2 tblsp raisins 2 tblsp raw molasses 1/4 cup powdered NONFAT milk or equivalent Using near-boiling tap water in 3/5-filled glass blender bowls sequentially, add these ingredients to the blender and churn to the minimum, absolute smallest particle size. Sufficient hot water to yield volume of 8 qts. soup. You may freeze surplus LUMPS in extra ice cube trays; thaw, heat, and serve as needed. Provide dry ferret chow and fresh water. When serving the soup (3/4 filled tuna-fish sized can is ideal) dip your finger into the warm soup and present your saturated finger to the ferret's muzzle/nose for scent identification. In the event your ferret does not immediately start licking your finger, quickly and deftly dab the the ferret's muzzle with your soup-smeared finger. Chances are he will lick his muzzle and will likely come back to your finger for a second helping. Repeat this effort and with each repetition try to get the ferret to move closer to the soup can... (Ed recommends starting with a ration of one part ferret chow to nine part cat food and decreasing the cat food each day by one part until you have no cat food. He also says "Always use a new ration of soup rather than feed yesterday's LUMPS.") (Ed also says "This recipe has grown hair on bald-naked ferrets!" For space reasons I've basically just given the recipe, but he has a complete handout which he will be happy to send *you* if you send him an SASE. Please correspond with him via Ma Bell or snail mail -- I'm just acting as the middleman! Thanx!) ------------------------------ Subject: (11.2) What's Duck Soup? Anyone have a recipe? Duck Soup, also called Ferret Soup and similar things, is a high-calorie, high-protein concoction meant to be fed to old or sick ferrets in order to fatten them up and help them regain their health. The following comes from Ann Davis: ACME Ferret Company --- The Original DUCK SOUP For years, we have been trying to find a super formula to fatten up sick ferrets, oldsters and ferrets with ulcers. We have been looking for something high in calories and protein, with added vitamins. After trying just about everything on the market for pets, we had just about given up, and were making do with some things that were not quite perfect for the little guys, because everything made for cats that we could find had a condensed milk base. [If your ferret is really sick, you may have to work your way through] all the steps, from full Sustacal to Duck Soup in caring for a sick ferret. We have heard of many miraculous recoveries attributed to Duck Soup. It has helped old ferrets, ferrets with insulinoma, ferrets with hair loss, and ferrets who are just plain too sick to eat. DUCK SOUP 1 can Sustacal (8 oz.; it comes in a larger size too) 1 can water (8 oz.) 2 scoops puppy or kitten weaning formula -- OPTIONAL 4 oz. dry kitten or ferret food, soaked in enough water to cover and soften it completely [Sustacal is meant for humans; look for it by baby formulas or in the pharmacy section of your supermarket.] Mix thoroughly. We always nuke it for them to the temperature of baby formula. We serve about 4 fluid ounces at a time twice a day for maintenance; if your little guys eat too much and you feel they are getting fat, you can increase the amount of water. We have tried increasing the amount of dry food, but if it gets too thick some of them won't eat it. This formula also freezes well -- the Sustacal must be used within 48 hours if left only in the fridge. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 12. *** Medical reference material *** ------------------------------ Subject: (12.1) What books can I get or recommend to my vet? There is a series out by the American Animal Hospital Association 12575 West Bayaud Ave. Lakewood, DO 80228 tel. 800-252-2242 for practitioners on exotic pets. There are five books in the series. Dr. Jeff Jenkins and Dr. Susan Brown produced the one on Rabbits and Ferrets (he did the rabbit part). It is practical, useful, has drug dosages, treatments, husbandry, normal clinical pathology values, diagnostic techniques that might be useful for your vet. ------------------------------ Subject: (12.2) Are there any other useful references? Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, recommends these references on cancers: Lawrence HJ et al. Unilateral adrenalectomy as a treatment for adrenocortical tumors in ferrets: Five cases (1990-1992). JAVMA 203(2): pp 267-270, 15 July 1993. Rosenthal KL et al. Hyperadrenocorticism associated with adrenocortical tumor or nodular hyperplasia of the adrenal gland in ferrets: 50 cases (1987-1991). JAVMA 203(2):pp. 271-275, 15 July 1993. Marini, RP et al. Functional islet cell tumor in six ferrets. JAVMA 202(3):430-434, 1 February 1993. == End of Part V == -- - Pam Greene <pgreene@optics.rochester.edu> Ferret Central - <http://www.ceas.rochester.edu:8080/ee/users/rhode/index.html> Ferret FAQ - GET ANSWERS PACKAGE FERRET in mail to <listserv@cunyvm.cuny.edu>